Wednesday, 02 August 2006

L'Anse aux Meadows to Triple Falls RV Park (Newfoundland)

I had planned to send a few days around the northern tip, but the weather hasn't been great for doing any hiking. It was cloudy and grey again when I first got up, and as I was only planning to go as far as St. Anthony today, say 50 km, I decided I could have a lie-in. A fatal mistake as it was soon raining and I had to pack up the tent in the rain.

I cycled back to St. Lunaire-Griquet and found that the Fisherman`s Galley wasn't open until 11 am even though they had breakfast on their menu! I went to the library to fill the time until they opened. I stretched out breakfast for as long as I could, then set off for the cold wet cycle to St. Anthony. When my fingers started getting numb, I remembered that I had my waterproof mitts in my jacket pockets, so I stopped to put them on. I also have some Goretex socks with me, but my aversion to the socks and sandals combination meant that I put up with having numb toes. (Even though my Goretex sock are black, so it probably looks like I'm wearing some strange cycling shoes) It was raining consistently and was a chilly 12oC

All along by the side of the road are piles of firewood. Locals have to buy a permit which allows them to cut wood in a certain area and they have a quota they are allowed to cut. They are not allowed to sell or trade the wood, it should be for personal use only. Of course, in the UK, someone would soon have away with the wood, but here, no-one steals any as if they were caught they'd be shunned for life.

Also along the road are the little allotments, mainly of potatoes but occasionally of other crops. When the road was built, any topsoil excavated was piled at the side of the road, and although it is officially Crown land, they turn a blind eye to it being used for small scale crop growing as the locals are just showing some self-sufficiency.

In St. Anthony I went to the Grenfell Historic Buildings. The Interpretation Centre presented the surprisingly interesting story of Dr Wilfred Grenfell, a British born doctor and missionary who first brought healthcare to this part of Newfoundland and Labrador. It almost seems as if it was solely his drive and dedication that lead to the establishment of several hospitals, nursing stations and orphanages throughout the area. When he first visited in the late 1800's he was the only doctor serving a population of up to 30,000 mostly living in conditions of squalor, poverty and malnutrition. Also open to the public is the house in which Grenfell and his wife lived when in St.Anthony; with 70% of the furnishing being original and so a lot more authentic than many such properties.

At 6 pm when the house closed, it had stopped raining, so I did the walk up Tea House Hill behind the house for the panoramic views of St Anthony and the harbour. I then cycled out past the harbour to Fishing Point, and then back into town for something to eat; Chinese made a pleasant change - I ended up with a huge 'combination plate' of food.

After the customary visit to the library I set off out of town into the gathering gloom of evening to go to the Triple Falls RV Park. After 2 nights of wild camping I thought it would be good to have a shower and do some laundry. The wind had shifted around to the north and was drizzling again. My cycle computer was showing 9oC but it didn't feel that cold. I was planning to report that I had ONLY seen one moose today, when I saw another waiting to cross the road. It started trotting down the road as a car overtook me, so I ended up chasing it down the road (not literally) I was being left behind by both moose and car until they disappeared out of sight around a corner never to be seen again.

It was very gloomy when I got to the RV Park. I asked for a nice grassy site, and the lady allocated me a place, but then seemed to change her mind and moved me to a site closer to the facilities. Very considerate I thought. Except that the site turned out to be on sand. Wet and sand. We all know how well they go together. The tent and everything will be all gritty tomorrow. The sand was only a couple of inches deep over something that felt like concrete so the tent pegs wouldn't go in either. She was obviously a sadist. Let me go round to her place and tip a bucket of sand in her bed - she how she likes it! (I guess if you don't camp in a tent you don't think about such things) ($15.46, showers free)

Distance: 63.1 km
Cycling time: 4:00
Total distance: 5092.0 km