Saturday, 12 August 2006

Godbout to Sainte-Flavie (Quebec)

Taking a ferry-crossing is always exciting (Not quite the right word) as it is like making a fresh start somewhere new. I was awake before my 5:30 alarm. The sun was just hitting the tent and it was raining at the same time. What sort of evil trick is that? It was only raining lightly though and had stopped by the time I packed up the tent. I went back to the little restaurant opposite the ferry terminal for breakfast as I had plenty of time before the ferry was due to arrive at 7:30.

There was cloud over both sides of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, but it was clear and sunny over the gulf itself for the 2 hour crossing to Matane. ($13.10, bicycle free) The sun was shining in Matane when I arrived, but there was no hiding place from the cold wind. The flags were flapping in my face and I was reduced to a snail-like 14 - 16 km/h. The 132 road follows the coast, and had a good 2 metre wide shoulder so i didn't have to worry about the traffic. In places I could leave the 132 and cycle through the little villages next to the sea. In Sainte-Ulric I bought some food for lunch - again far too much - and found a sheltered spot, hunkered down behind the sea-wall in the park for a picnic.

I plodded on for another hour or so then stopped for a tea in a restaurant in Baie-des-Sables. I was surprised to find that it was still not yet 1 pm - the mornings are so long when you get up before 6 am, and by noon it feels as if it should be mid-afternoon. Just when I thought it was all going to be plain sailing, 10 km from Sainte-Flavie the shoulder disappeared and I was squeezed back onto the road. Ahead of me it looked very dark once again and it started to rain just as I arrived at the Jardins de Métis. I wasn't sure if there was enough of interest or enough time to warrant the $14 entry fee so I sat and relaxed in the cafe for a while instead. I'm definitely having a relaxed and easy day.

Where possible I was following signs for 'La Route verte'- part of the network of cycle routes covering Quebec. Some of the places I cycled through seemed quite 'well-to-do' - big detached houses with manicured gardens. It seems strange after weeks in the wilds of Newfoundland. Oddly sanitised. I feel a bit out of place.

With the weather being so changeable the sky was very dramatic - bright blue sky and luminously bright white clouds contrasting with the darker clouds and rain. Often in the distance or out in the Gulf of St. Lawrence you could see the rain showers passing or approaching.

Just down the road from the Jardins de Métis was the Parc de la riviere Mitis where I briefly amused myself by taking a couple of pictures with me in using the timer. It seems a bit odd, ego-centric, taking pictures of yourself, but I figure the blog will be a bit odd if there aren't some photos with me in.

I wasn't far from Sainte-Flavie, a long village spread out along the 132 by the sea. It's a popular, pretty place, with lots of plots of land for sale, I can see that it is a real tourist spot as there are dozens of little art galleries and the like. I can see it attracting the New Age crowd, if that's too 'old hat'. It's just a shame that it's all right on the road.

I got marooned in the Tourist Office by another passing downpour, and then cycled the last few kilometres to the Capitain Homard restaurant, which has cottages and a campground. ($15, showers $1) I was pitched right next to the thin strip of beach - it was nearly high tide - and there were a couple of other cycle-tourist also camping for the night. I cooked my 3-minute noodles - trying to stop things blowing away in the breeze. I had found a packet of dehydrated vegetables in the supermarket in Sept-Iles, and added some to the noodles - they worked quite well to liven them up. It's funny sometimes what you find in the shops. Virtually every store in Newfoundland seemed to have 3-minute noodles and yet I can't imagine ever eating them except when camping - and I didn't see many other people camping. What has been more difficult is buying smaller portions of the more common groceries. Things like milk or fruit juice are often only available in 2 litre cartons or larger.

Distance: 67.9 km
Cycling time: 4:26
Total distance: 5972.3 km