Wednesday, 26 July 2006

Rocky Harbour to Cow Head (Newfoundland)

After one day of glorious weather, Gros Morne had reverted back to 'Big Gloomy' It was blustery and rainy during the night and felt cool and damp in the morning. At least the cloud wasn't too low so I was hopeful that at least it might stay dry during the day.

We said our goodbyes, Mike and Kelly heading back to Norris Point for the ferry over to Woody Point and then up over 'The Struggle' to Deer Lake. I went to the Fisherman's Landing restaurant in Rocky Harbour for breakfast while waiting for things to open up. I sat and tried to work out a schedule - for the first time I had to do some real planning ahead as the ferry I want to get in Quebec only sails once a week, so I don't want to miss it!

I ended up spending all morning in Rocky Harbour, doing some blog and research on the internet, some food shopping (limited options here) and some phoning around. I made the ferry booking so I'm committed now to the 5th August sailing. I went back to the busy Fisherman's Landing restaurant for lunch before setting off. I was talking to one of the ferrymen there, and he was saying that they came across a moose swimming across Bonne Bay from Norris Point to Woody Point (about a mile) - and they had to shepherd it across using the boat to keep it going in the right direction as other boats were scaring it. Eventually it made it across. But what goes through it's mind to make such a journey? Does it squint across the bay and think "Hmmm, the grass looks a little bit greener over there..."

I followed the Main Street North up to Lobster Cove Lighthouse (entry by park permit only - ridiculous) and then back onto the 340. After only a few kilometres I rolled into the fog, so although the sea was close, most of the time I couldn't see it. It was misty all the way to Cow Head, but with a crosswind coming from slightly behind me I made the distance in fairly quick time.

Cow Head is pretty much a one street town. The first place I came to was the library, which I noticed was open until 8 pm - which might give me a chance to relieve the blog backlog. Then I went to the Warehouse Theatre to find out what was available for tonight. The dinner theatre was sold out, but there were still tickets available for the evening play - Double Axe Murder - at 8:30 pm. Perfect. I bought a ticket ($23) and then went to pitch the tent at the Sea Breeze B&B and RV Resort. Luckily they had space for a tent.

I dashed straight out to the library until they closed at 8 pm, when I went to the theatre. For me the theatre, like live music, should be a small intimate affair. In large venues you are remote, removed from the 'action'. The Warehouse Theatre is pretty small, and I couldn't have been closer to the action. Seat A1 is closest to the 'stage'. (There is no raised stage) I could easily have reached out to touch the actors at times. I couldn't have had a better seat if I'd pre-booked it in advance.

There were only three actors in this edgy psychological tale set claustrophobically in a trappers cabin in a snowstorm. Based on court records from the time, when two trappers mysteriously disappear at Cow Head in 1809. Sarah Singleton, sister of one of the missing men and fiancee of the other, and the man for whom she is housekeeper set out to try to find them. They arrive at the cabin in a snowstorm to find another trapper already staying there; the fidgety, tormented John Pelly...

Distance: 62.9 km
Cycling time: 3:00
Total distance: 4552.6 km