Wednesday, 19 July 2006

Gander to Grand Falls-Windsor (Newfoundland)

Last night was, as ever, a great evening with great food and great, relaxed company. As we heading across Newfoundland in opposite directions we were able to swap stories on where we'd been and what we'd done. John was asking me what my plans were, which forced me to admit what I've been thinking for a while; that getting across Canada is now not really feasible given the distance, the time available, and possibly the prevailing winds...! He'd also seconded guessed the thought I had to travel down the St. Lawrence bay and river to make a tour. It seems to make sense to have a target in mind, so I'll have to decide where I want to make my end-point. Still, plenty of time to think about that.

I'd woken in the night with a headache (can't be because of the 1 beer I'd had!) and I lay awake for ages before bothering to get the Aspirin tablets as they were out in the tent porch - buzzing with mosquitoes. As a result, I didn't make a very early start, but did well to be on the go by 8 am. I cycled on the outskirts of Gander to find the T'Railway. When I did find it, it was rough, with big loose gravel - surely this couldn't be what they rated as grade 'A'? After nearly a kilometre, just past Little Cobb Pond, the trail improved dramatically - it was hard-packed and flat. This was definitely grade 'A'. The Rolls-Royce of cycle-paths (with only the occasional pot-hole or gravel patch) All the way to Appleton (22 km) was easy and fast cycling, but not much in the way of views as the bush is regrowing at the side of the trail.

At least there was some wildlife to see - small mice, voles (?) and squirrels darting across the track, a rabbit and of course lots of wildflowers, red elderberry, bunchberries coming into fruit. Next to the track was the occasional lake with white and yellow flowered lilies. Dragonflies zoomed along beside me like little fighter escorts. Butterflies fluttered - they are mostly quite big - or small; nothing in between. Even the annoying Deer Flies that buzz round your head and will bite you given the chance had beautiful iridescent green eyes and tessellated wing patterns. And of course there were signs that moose had been there...
From Glenwood to Notre Dame Junction the trail was rougher with more loose sand and sharp gravel which made the going tougher as the day was getting hotter. I would rate this section as 'B' with patches of 'C' There was nowhere to stop at Notre Dame Junction - I was cycling through what looked like a caravan graveyard - but there were people around. I spied a sign for the Valley Lounge Restaurant 10 km further on at Norris Arm, so I kept going...

By the time I arrived, it was nearly 1 pm and 34 C and I had covered nearly 63 km. I was hot, dusty and thirsty, so it was good to stop for lunch in the shade and cool down. I decided I really should try the Cod Tongues - considered something of a delicacy in Newfoundland. I wouldn't normally eat something which has been in someone else's mouth, but I made an exception in this case. An unusual mix of chewy and soft. (and fishy)

The Norris Arm Library was closed for childrens reading hour, so I headed off once again. I was back on the road as the T'Railway was rated 'D/E' for the next section. I followed the 351 road for a short way and ended up back on the TCH. A lorry immediately thundered past a couple of feet away in welcome as I started a long uphill climb. Once at the top I was struck by how big the sky seemed, and what few clouds there were only seemed to emphasize the distance to the horizon. It's just a shame there was no high point from which to take a panoramic picture. Awesome view.

At the first junction available I detoured into Bishop Falls to go to the library there and escape the heat for a while. Although I still felt quite strong, my leg muscles felt tight when I got back on the bike - but then I guess I had been cycling for nearly 6 hours in the heat. My map didn't show it, but the road through Bishop Falls shadowed the TCH and rejoined it further along (up a short steep climb) so at least I didn't have to cycle all the way back to the junction.

I only had another 20 km or so to go to Grand Falls-Windsor and several more hours of daylight, so I was in no rush. I stopped at the Irving gas station restaurant for a cup of tea and ended up having a cooked breakfast - at 5 pm! (Well, I do have a ritual to maintain now) A breakfast also isn't too filling, which you don't want on a bicycle.

It was 6 pm and much cooler when I set off again on the TCH past all the junctions into Grand Falls-Windsor until the last one - junction 17. The tourist information office was closed when I got there - they'd obviously decided to knock off early - so I headed into town and saw a sign for a campsite, which was a couple of kilometres out of town. Beothuck Park ($15, showers free) In spite of all the cycling I'd already done today, I cycled back into town to the Dominion supermarket as they do a probiotic Organic Vanilla yogurt to die for. I had a craving.

There were two Canadian cyclists in the campsite opposite mine, Mike and Kelly, so we sat and exchanged cycling tales as we sat under a fantastic crimson sunset - so hopefully another sunny day tomorrow...

Distance: 119.7 km
Cycling time: 7:35
Total distance: 4145.6 km