Tuesday, 25 July 2006

Rocky Harbour. Hiking in Gros Morne National Park (Newfoundland)

We had to move campsite first thing in the morning as the one we were on was reserved. Once we'd relocated, we sorted out what we needed for the day and then set off to the Visitor Centre where I needed to buy a day pass to hike in the park. (Ridiculous) From the Visitor Centre we had a short cycle to the start of the hike we were doing - Gros Morne mountain.

It had rained quite a bit in the night - I'd had trouble sleeping as there was so much smoke in the air from campfires that I was all 'bunged up'. The rain and damp trapped the smoke and kept it low. This is the real cause of global warming - needless campfires.

The morning when it dawned though was bright and clear - it looked like it was going to be the perfect day for a hike. From the trail head car park, we had a tramp of about an hour to get to the serious climbing. From the car park the path had initially been in mixed woodland and then low scrub as the trail rose up about 300 metres in about 4 kilometres. As we emerged from the trees there were some great views, both ahead to Gros Morne, and back to Bonne Bay. Woody Point and the Tableslands. As we started to climb the scree slope of 'The Gully' up Gros Morne, More of Bonne Bay came into view and the yellowish barren Tablelands seemed to recede as the whole vista of the bay opened up before us.

It was a long hot climb up 500 metres, gradually flattening out as we reached the top into a barren stony plateau - a sea of rock known as a felsenmeer to geologists. the trail was quite busy as everyone took the opportunity of a break in the weather to do the hike. We stopped for a longer lunch break on the top of the mountain - looking over the verdant uplands beyond, dotted with lakes and waterfalls. The trail continues across the top of Gros Morne with fine views to the north over Ten Mile Pond and out to the coast. As we walked across the top, two caribou stags came at speed across the plateau , crossing the trail not far from where we were. Presumably the second stag was pursuing the first to assert its dominance. We also saw a lone doe (?) and later a doe with a calf moving easily up the steep mountainside. The trail dropped down through Ferry Gulch round the back of the mountain less steeply than the path up and comes back round to meet the path that leads up The Gully. At the junction we came across a moose not far from the trail, doing what moose do best; eating. (Who am I to talk!) It didn't have antlers so I assume that it was either a cow or immature male. We watched it for a while and tried to get some decent photos though it clearly wasn't in the mood to pose. It stood with it's back to us, so I have some great shots of the arse-end of a moose.

We then just had the return walk of about 4 km to the the car park to complete a great days hiking - 16 km in just under 7 hours, including photo and food stops. As weary as we were we stile had to get back on out bikes. We cycled into Rocky Harbour to find somewhere to eat for a farewell meal. Mike and Kelly head back south tomorrow whilst I will be going north.

Distance: 18.8 km
Cycling time: 1:10
Total distance: 4489.7 km