Saturday, 08 July 2006

La Manche Provincial Park to Chance Cove Provincial Park

(Saw moose today!)

I had no alarms set, and dozed in 'bed' in the morning. I had lost my appetite for cycling even though it was such a beautiful sunny morning. I made myself some breakfast, but it was until after 9 am that I finally set off. Should I try to cover some distance and re-catch the travel bug, or should I have an easy enjoyable day? I couldn't decide. I stopped 10 km down the road for an ice-cream and tea. I needed that ice-cream as there was a long hot climb out of Cape Broyle. In spite of the clear sky and sun, it was chilly cycling along by the sea, especially on the downhills.

The route continued its hilly way south and at Ferryland is really beautiful, which lifted my spirits somewhat. In Ferryland is the Colony of Avalon archaeological site where I spent a couple of hours looking at the artifacts and taking the guided tour. The colony was first established in 1621 and has a fascinating and complex history. (http://www.heritage.nf.ca/avalon)

By the time I left it was already 2pm so it looks like I'm having an easy cycling day after all. I stopped at the small Ferryland Cafe, run by the extrovert Rhonda, for a light lunch. From Ferryland there were a few more small communities, but they were becoming smaller and further apart. After Cappahayden the road turns inland and I was now battling against a stiff SW breeze - the wind never rests here it seems, even on a cloudless sunny day.

It was about 6:30 by the time I reached Chance Cove Provincial Park, but from the entrance it was still a rough 6 km ride on a gravel road to the parking lot by the cove. The parking area was quite busy with RV's, cars and tents. I had some drinking water left, but I asked a group nearby if there was anywhere to get freshwater from, for cooking with; they thought that there was a stream nearby but insisted on giving me some of their bottled drinking water. Then, as I was sorting out my tent, they brought over a plate of stew for me. I took my stew over to socialise with them as I ate, and ended up with seconds and tea. Lovely. The Cavanaghs (?) originally from Ireland, but in Newfoundland for several generations still retain an Irish accent and are a big family; 15 siblings (12 girls and 3 boys) and as you might expect from living in a crowd, loud and gregarious. Luckily, not the whole family was present otherwise I would have struggled with the names. Of the siblings and spouses, I remember Daphne, Allie, Philomena, Frank, Brendan and Carly. Philomena ('Meeny') insisted that I wrote in my diary that in all my travels, she was the most beautiful woman I'd met. She was certainly the cheekiest. In the evening we sat around a blazing fire with sparks flying everywhere in the wind as they entertained me with ghost stories about the deserted community of Chance Cove.

Oh, and the moose? - It was on my plate; moose stew! (I'd thought it was odd that I hadn't seen moose or caribou on a menu anywhere. Moose tasted just like beef to me)

Distance: 72.1 km
Cycling time: 4:44
Total distance: 3261.0 km