Friday 30 June 2006

Rencontre East to Frenchmans Cove (Newfoundland)

Rencontre was fog bound when I emerged from the tent at 6 am for a breakfast of tinned pears and an apple. I packed up the bike and tried riding it down to the ferry, but it was far too dangerous trying to control a heavy bike sliding on the steep rough gravel to I resorted to manhandling the bike with almost as much difficulty down to the wharf.

There were many more passengers this morning - about a dozen - and I found myself sitting at the galley table with four women. After they had exhausted their interest in me, they returned to their small town gossip and rumour-mongering. It was quite entertaining to listen to their smalltalk.

The trip to Bay L'Argent took just under 2 hours, and as we arrived it was less foggy but still overcast. From Bay L'Argent the 212 road followed the coastline under towering cliffs and then headed inland on a hilly road. I guess pretty much everywhere in Newfoundland is going to be hilly. At the junction with the 210 road I turned right, heading south down the Burin Peninsula. There are a few C@P sites this way but I don't think I'll get to use them as tomorrow is Canada Day, and on Sunday most places are closed anyway...

After a few more km along the road into the wind (the cloud was now breaking up and the sun was starting to appear) I turned off the 210 to go to Boat Harbour. After cycling a steep hill and then dropping back down to sea level I found out that the little fisherman's house museum I was looking for was actually back on the main road and not in Boat Harbour itself. (Damn - as if things aren't hard enough already!) I toiled back up the hill and along the main road. Next to Livyers Lot (fisherman's house museum) was The Tea Rose, which served traditional Newfoundland food. Tempting though the breakfast was I thought I should sample the local food; the option for Fridays was Salt Fish with Brewis (Hard bread soaked overnight in water then boiled) potato and scruncheons (sort of pork crackling pieces) It would have been a bit bland except for the salt fish. Dessert and tea was included in the price ($7.70 - bargain) so I sampled the Partridgeberry pie. I didn't bother to ask what partridgeberry was being as the waitress didn't even know what Brewis was!

Livyers Lot is a traditional fisherman's house that has been relocated to its current resting place and is filled with representative furniture and other items from the local area. It was quite interesting to look around but a bit frustrating to be given the tour by a callow youth who clearly didn't know too much about what he was talking about and so had the tendency to over-elaborate and waffle. At least he seemed enthusiastic, unlike his non-speaking side-kick. They are clearly on some kind of job creation scheme since employment is so scarce here.

When I finally set off again it had clouded over again but was still warm, and as I was cycling into the wind, it was hard going. It seemed as if I was permanently cycling uphill although I knew this not to be the case. The 210 turned out to be quite a busy road and as I noticed since I first arrived in Newfoundland and was cycling around Port aux Basques, the local drivers are more impatient and less considerate than anywhere else I've been on this trip. They're coming past whatever; blind summit, oncoming traffic. If I'm going to die in an RTA it's going to be here.

At least I had the scenery to distract me. Newfoundland has a seemingly endless supply of wilderness which I'm still scanning for any sign of moose. (or caribou) Newfies run into hundreds of them every year - mostly at night in their cars.

Just to make things a bit tougher, the rain arrived. I could see a wall of rain coming in my direction and I stopped to get my rain jacket out in readiness, but even as I was stopped, it was upon me. It didn't last too long, but the next wave of rain caught me as I was toiling uphill and not inclined to stop, so I just put up with it and got wet. The rest of the day was changeable, but by the time I got to Marystown, a combination of body heat,sun and the wind had dried me out. I had just enough time to get to the library to check email before they closed at 5 pm.

As most meals here seem to be lacking in any vegetable other than potato (usually in chip form) I decided to go to Subway where I was at least guranteed some lettuce and tomato. I'm quite attached to my teeth and don't want that attachment to be loosened by scurvy!

When I left Marystown I still had another 25 km to go. Some rain, some sun, always the wind. I finally arrived at Frenchmans Cove Provincial Park at about 20 past 7 and was lucky to get a nice scenic spot next to the lake. The wardens were very helpful and friendly.

Distance: 96.5 km
Cycling time: 6:20
Total distance: 2618.2 km