Sunday, 30 July 2006

Green Island Brook to Pistolet Bay Provincial Park (Newfoundland)

From my campsite by the beach, I only heard the occasional beat of the music from the band between the lullaby of the waves breaking on the shore. By morning the flapping of the tent in the wind had been added to the orchestra of the sea and gulls, but when I looked out of the tent it was foggy and cold. I finally motivated myself to make a move and set off through the fog by 8 am. No-one stirred in Green Island Brook - I'm sure that there were some hangovers being nursed.

After only a few km I had passed through Eddie's Cove and climbed up away from the coast as the 430 headed east across country. As soon as I was away from the coast I was out of the fog and the wind was pushing me along at a good rate of knots along the flat road across the barrens. Soon there was some blue sky and even some sun. I was worried I might see a moose related accident as one crossed the road just in front of me as a car came up behind me. Once they decide to cross there's no stopping them. Fortunately there was no collision.

For the whole morning I passed through no settlements, there was just the barrens and wilderness on each side of the road (and the occasional small potato allotment in the middle of nowhere) After I had passed the St Anthony airport, the road became hillier; the predominant traffic on the road was RV trailers and motor homes, mostly heading the other way.

By noon I had cycled 80 km as I reached the turn-off for the 437 road, which heads west, so I was now cycling into the wind and the last 9 km to Pistolet Bay Provincial Park was slow and tiring. There are guided tours of Burnt Cape Ecological Reserve that are organised out of the Park (9:30 and 2 pm) so I just had time to pitch the tent, have a bite to eat and a quick shower (bliss) before the 2 pm tour. ($5)

It's a nice easy tour as you get driven around the reserve and get out occasionally for a short walk. The best time to visit Burnt Cap is at the end of June as that is when most of the plants are in flower. (Although this year it was 3 weeks early since it was so warm) As a result, the plants weren't at their 'best' or most photogenic, but it was interesting to see them in their barren limestone habitat, especially the patterns of rock on the ground called 'frost polygons' that are created slowly by the freeze/thaw cycle. It was much colder and windier here on the exposed headland.

Last year on one tour with about a dozen people, when they visited the Big Oven sea cave, there was a polar bear in the water. The tour guide was obviously very worried and was trying to get everyone back to the vehicles but they just wanted to stop and take photos. They thought it was a young polar bear stranded after the ice had melted and that it was feeding on a dead stranded whale (luckily for the tourists!) They closed the reserve for a few days and tried to scare the bear off using loud noises; eventually it jumped into the sea and swam over to Labrador - from Burnt Cape that must be at least 30 km not counting tides and currents.

It seems that the tendency in speech here on the Northern Tip is to drop your H's and add them to any other word that starts with a vowel, hence; "The h'area we h'are h'accessing 'as very h'old h'alpine plants special to this 'abitat" Funny.

When I got back from the tour, I was walking through the park to the campsite area when a big moose came crashing out of the scrub and into the road just ahead of me. It gave me quite a start. I snapped a couple of photos as it nonchalantly sampled the vegetation at the side of the road before disappearing into the scrub on the other side. When I went out later on the bike to the Burnt Cape Cafe, I came across yet another moose by the side of the road; being on the bike meant it was startled straight away and ran along by the road before bolting up a side track. It seems you can hardly go out here without tripping over a moose! Having seen no moose for weeks, I'm now seeing quite a few. I just need a big bull moose with 'a nice rack' to pose for me.

Distance: 102.5 km
Cycling time: 5:14
Total distance: 4935.7 km

Saturday, 29 July 2006

Port au Choix to Green Island Brook (Newfoundland)

I had just got back to the tent at 9:30 pm from updating blog when it started to rain. It rained pretty heavily (it always sounds worse in a tent) for a few hours, and there were some rumbles of thunder too, off in the distance - maybe over the Long Range Mountains. By morning the rain had stopped and the tent had almost been blown dry by the wind. Ingornachoix Bay, which had been calm last night, now had some small waves breaking onto the rocks.

I dragged myself from bed, forced down a breakfast of Nutri-grain bars (5) and yogurt, packed up the bike and was on the road again by 7:45. There seemed to be a migration of snails across the road from the beach side to that landward side - I don't know if that means anything. Storm coming? I didn't fancy their chances much of getting safely across.

From Port au Choix it was 13 km to get back to the 430, cycling into a weak offshore breeze from the south east. I 'cracked-on' to put some distance under my wheels while the weather was dry. By 10 am when it was starting to spit I had already done 40 km, and there wasn't much along the way other than the Long Range Mountains and trees to my right and the sea and a couple of very small communities to my left. Eddie's Cove West and Barr'd Harbour were just a handful of houses. Piles of lobster pots and some small potato allotments were also occasionally at the side of the road.

The spitting rain was getting slowly heavier, so I was quite damp by the time I got to the Viking 430 gas bar/store/restaurant at 11 am and almost 60 km. I guess I'm getting to one of the remoter parts of Newfoundland now; luxuries may be few and far between. At least I was expecting my breakfast to come on a plate rather than a polystyrene take-out box. Tea was 'make it yourself'.

It was about 1:30 pm and I had done about 90 km by the time I got to the St Barbe turning. St Barbe is where the 'Labrador Ferry' sails from (actually goes to Blanc Sablon in Quebec, right on the border with Labrador) I went to the ferry terminal to see if I could get any information about Blanc Sablon, but there was none to be had. The ticket office was closed. I went next door to the Dockside Motel for a nice pan-fried Cod lunch.

From St Barbe I headed back to the 430 and along the coast through a series of little fishing communities. At Flower's Cove I stopped to visit Marjorie's Bridge - a reconstruction of the first, and for a long time only, bridge giving access to the village, and also to see the 'Thrombolites' on the shore. I guess these are supposedly 'fossilized' stromatolites built by micro-organisms that aren't themselves preserved. Flower's Cove looked quite pretty - again a nice day would make it well worth a visit. Even on a day like today there is a misty ethereal light from the sun in the west that was quite enchanting.

I carried on through a few more communities - they are all quite close together here - and then decided that it might be a good idea to find somewhere to camp. After Eddie's Cove East there are no more communities on the road for 80 km or more and I thought that it might not be easy to find somewhere good to camp right next to the 430. Also, the sky to the east was looking quite dark and threatening. I stopped at Green Island Brook and asked around about somewhere good to camp. Eventually I found a nice spot back past the wharf and behind the beach - next to the fishing nets laid out to be washed by the rain and dried by the sun. I had toyed with the idea of carrying on cycling for a couple more hours, but it turned out to be a good decision as not long after I had pitched the tent, it started to rain.

This week was Green Island Brook's 'Come Home' week, where friends and family members are all invited back to the community, and events and activities are organised for the reunion. It's something I've seen quite a few times on my travels around Newfoundland. Last night they were supposed to have a bonfire and fireworks but it was cancelled because of the rain. Looks like it might be cancelled again tonight.

I went back to Minnie's Place in the evening, as they'd been so friendly and helpful, and also because they were the only place in town serving food. On thing that is common here in Newfoundland is having gravy on your chips/fries. At the town hall they had built a rough extension covered with tarpaulin, for the 'Come Home' party. The rain had collected between the layers of tarpaulin, so even though it had stopped raining outside it was still raining inside! I stopped in for a quick beer and then went to bed.

Distance: 136.4 km
Cycling time: 6:59
Total distance: 4833.2 km

Friday, 28 July 2006

River of Ponds to Port au Choix (Newfoundland)

I think it started raining at around 5:30 am, and my heart sank at the prospect of another wet day. By 8 am it had eased off so I packed up and set off by 8:30. The sky was an ugly grey, but it was just spitting with rain. It was one of those times when it was difficult to decide whether to wear a rain jacket or not. If you don't, it's colder and possibly wetter, but if you do it can be hot and sweaty (and smelly!) I decided to keep the jacket on as if the roads were as flat as yesterday I shouldn't get too hot. Of course it turned out that the road was hillier - nothing too hard, but a series of undulations. The trend must have been gradually upwards as when I neared Hawke's Bay, I could look down on the town in the distance and there was a great view over Hawke's Bay itself. It would have made a great photo on a nice day.

I stopped at the Irving gas station to ask if there was anywhere open in town for breakfast, and ended up at the Fiddlers Rest Cafe down by the waterfront. The water in the bay reflected the grey of the sky. From Hawkes Bay I cycled round to Port Saunders (had a couple of bad experiences on the way with lorries going past very close) where I just had enough time to do some emails in the library before they closed at noon. Port Saunders is quite a pretty place, stretched out in a line between the sea and a hill behind.

It was only a few more kilometres to Port au Choix. I had a quick Subway Sub, then pitched the tent at the Oceanside RV Park ($10, showers free) and then cycled out to the Visitor Centre at the National Historic Site ($7.15) There is evidence of human habitation here in Port au Choix going back 5,500 years. The first known inhabitants were 'Maritime Archaic' Indians who lived here when the climate was warmer than it is today. They were followed by two distinct cultures of 'palaeoeskimos' when the climate was much colder, between 1300 and 2800 years ago. The most recent Indian inhabitants may have been displaced by the Europeans who began arriving here in search of Cod in the last 500 years. (http://www.pc.ga.ca/portauchoix)

To someone coming from a mild climate, it's easier to comprehend moving into an area as it warms and leaving it if it becomes too cold, but not vice versa. But I guess that eskimos are skilled and adapted to very cold environments. You'd perhaps also think that if the climate changed slowly over generations that people would adapt to the new conditions. It just goes to show how much creatures of habit we are, how we resist change.

From the Visitor Centre I cycled out to Point Riche with its lighthouse. Having been cool and damp all day, it turned into a pleasant evening down by the beach where I was camped. the sun even put in a few brief appearances.

I had found out that the Sea Echo Motel had internet in the lobby which they let me use for free for 20 minutes. When I went back later in the evening there was no-one around to ask, so I just sat down to start updating the blog, and must have been there for nearly 2 hour and got the blog bang up to date. I checked the forecast for tomorrow, which isn't looking good - rain, heavy at times, with a chance of thunderstorms late morning or early afternoon. Doesn't leave much room for optimism.

Distance: 59.3 km
Cycling time: 3:27
Total distance: 4696.8 km

Thursday, 27 July 2006

Cow Head to River of Ponds (Newfoundland)

It rained some during the night but the morning was calm with some sun peeking between the clouds. Inland there was some fog floating around but for once the coast was clear. The water in Shallow Bay was mirror flat.

I took a quick trip out on the bike to get some photos of the bay and to visit St. Mary's Botanical Walk next to the church. My rear derailleur had started playing up yesterday and I had tried adjusting the indexing but it only seemed to get worse. It seemed as if the cable was jamming and wasn't the indexing at all. I was thinking that I would have to try to service it when the cable snapped completely. I went to the Shallow Bay Motel for breakfast as consolation.

The spare gear cable I've had for at least 4 years and have carried on the bike for over 14,000 km will finally get used. I had a brainwave before I started; I took the flysheet off the tent and spread it out on the ground so that when I inevitably dropped a fiddly little screw or other part, I wouldn't lose it in the grass and gravel. It worked too. As careful as I was I did drop a small screw. The cable had snapped inside the trigger-shift mechanism; it seems as though the cable rubs on the hollow adjuster nut as it leave the housing - a design flaw surely. While I was working on the bike, I gave it a check over. The disc-brake pads hardly seem worn at all - after 4500 km. I didn't need to bring so many/any spares! I'd have been through at least 3 sets of rim pads by now.

At least I was lucky with the weather. It would have been miserable trying to repair the bike in the wet. My camping towel and the tent had dried in the sun by the time I had finished, and when I was finally packed up and on the move again it was nearly 11 am. Within the first 10 km out of Cow Head I had seen 2 moose by the side of the road. Like other wildlife, while they may be completely inured to cars and people, they scarper at the first sight of a bicycle. On one occasion a car had stopped by the side of the road right next to a moose; I was wondering why they had stopped when I saw the moose, and as soon as it saw or heard me approach it disappeared into the bush before I got anywhere near.

I had been hoping for a tailwind to push me along the 340 all the way along the coast, but the wind was mostly a weak onshore breeze. At least it was never in my face. It was a pleasant cycle, heading north with the Gulf of St. Lawrence to my left and the Long Range Mountains to my right, but then after 30 km 'ping' - another broken spoke on the rear wheel. I was only one kilometre from 'The Arches' Provincial Park so I carried on to there and then unloaded the bike at a picnic table and set about replacing the broken spoke. I was mighty glad now that I had ordered the cassette removal tool by mail order. I took off my t-shirt to keep it clean[-ish] and to get some sun to my pasty white torso while I worked. It was hot work too in the sun. As I was working, a second spoke gave way. I was having the cycling equivalent of a bad hair day. I was thinking I must have got a 'Friday afternoon' wheel.

I replaced the broken spokes (also carried for 14,333 km without being used before) and trued the wheel as best I could. Quite a few people stopped to talk to me as I worked, with some offers of assistance, but now I had all I needed to do the repairs. Just as I was finished and was hoping to relax and enjoy The Arches in peace, a coach-load of tourists arrived. Damn.

It was 2 pm by the time I was back on the road again, and I stopped 15 km further down the road, at Daniel's Harbour, for a tea so that I could was the oil and dirt off my hands and write some diary. I didn't stop to eat as, with 2 breakdowns, I was running well behind schedule. The road was more or less flat so I could make good progress as the afternoon became more overcast but remained warm but not too hot.

It was almost 6 pm when I got to River of Ponds (Named by Captain James Cook in 1770, but previously known by the French as Rivieres des Rochs - River of Rocks) and I decided to call it a day. Just before the River of Ponds Park was the Cloudberry Cafe, so I stopped for dinner so that I wouldn't have to cook in the campsite. The campground was very pleasant - quite scenic next to the pond. ($11.50, showers $2)

Distance: 84.9 km
Cycling time: 4:26
Total distance: 4637.5 km

Wednesday, 26 July 2006

Rocky Harbour to Cow Head (Newfoundland)

After one day of glorious weather, Gros Morne had reverted back to 'Big Gloomy' It was blustery and rainy during the night and felt cool and damp in the morning. At least the cloud wasn't too low so I was hopeful that at least it might stay dry during the day.

We said our goodbyes, Mike and Kelly heading back to Norris Point for the ferry over to Woody Point and then up over 'The Struggle' to Deer Lake. I went to the Fisherman's Landing restaurant in Rocky Harbour for breakfast while waiting for things to open up. I sat and tried to work out a schedule - for the first time I had to do some real planning ahead as the ferry I want to get in Quebec only sails once a week, so I don't want to miss it!

I ended up spending all morning in Rocky Harbour, doing some blog and research on the internet, some food shopping (limited options here) and some phoning around. I made the ferry booking so I'm committed now to the 5th August sailing. I went back to the busy Fisherman's Landing restaurant for lunch before setting off. I was talking to one of the ferrymen there, and he was saying that they came across a moose swimming across Bonne Bay from Norris Point to Woody Point (about a mile) - and they had to shepherd it across using the boat to keep it going in the right direction as other boats were scaring it. Eventually it made it across. But what goes through it's mind to make such a journey? Does it squint across the bay and think "Hmmm, the grass looks a little bit greener over there..."

I followed the Main Street North up to Lobster Cove Lighthouse (entry by park permit only - ridiculous) and then back onto the 340. After only a few kilometres I rolled into the fog, so although the sea was close, most of the time I couldn't see it. It was misty all the way to Cow Head, but with a crosswind coming from slightly behind me I made the distance in fairly quick time.

Cow Head is pretty much a one street town. The first place I came to was the library, which I noticed was open until 8 pm - which might give me a chance to relieve the blog backlog. Then I went to the Warehouse Theatre to find out what was available for tonight. The dinner theatre was sold out, but there were still tickets available for the evening play - Double Axe Murder - at 8:30 pm. Perfect. I bought a ticket ($23) and then went to pitch the tent at the Sea Breeze B&B and RV Resort. Luckily they had space for a tent.

I dashed straight out to the library until they closed at 8 pm, when I went to the theatre. For me the theatre, like live music, should be a small intimate affair. In large venues you are remote, removed from the 'action'. The Warehouse Theatre is pretty small, and I couldn't have been closer to the action. Seat A1 is closest to the 'stage'. (There is no raised stage) I could easily have reached out to touch the actors at times. I couldn't have had a better seat if I'd pre-booked it in advance.

There were only three actors in this edgy psychological tale set claustrophobically in a trappers cabin in a snowstorm. Based on court records from the time, when two trappers mysteriously disappear at Cow Head in 1809. Sarah Singleton, sister of one of the missing men and fiancee of the other, and the man for whom she is housekeeper set out to try to find them. They arrive at the cabin in a snowstorm to find another trapper already staying there; the fidgety, tormented John Pelly...

Distance: 62.9 km
Cycling time: 3:00
Total distance: 4552.6 km

Tuesday, 25 July 2006

Rocky Harbour. Hiking in Gros Morne National Park (Newfoundland)

We had to move campsite first thing in the morning as the one we were on was reserved. Once we'd relocated, we sorted out what we needed for the day and then set off to the Visitor Centre where I needed to buy a day pass to hike in the park. (Ridiculous) From the Visitor Centre we had a short cycle to the start of the hike we were doing - Gros Morne mountain.

It had rained quite a bit in the night - I'd had trouble sleeping as there was so much smoke in the air from campfires that I was all 'bunged up'. The rain and damp trapped the smoke and kept it low. This is the real cause of global warming - needless campfires.

The morning when it dawned though was bright and clear - it looked like it was going to be the perfect day for a hike. From the trail head car park, we had a tramp of about an hour to get to the serious climbing. From the car park the path had initially been in mixed woodland and then low scrub as the trail rose up about 300 metres in about 4 kilometres. As we emerged from the trees there were some great views, both ahead to Gros Morne, and back to Bonne Bay. Woody Point and the Tableslands. As we started to climb the scree slope of 'The Gully' up Gros Morne, More of Bonne Bay came into view and the yellowish barren Tablelands seemed to recede as the whole vista of the bay opened up before us.

It was a long hot climb up 500 metres, gradually flattening out as we reached the top into a barren stony plateau - a sea of rock known as a felsenmeer to geologists. the trail was quite busy as everyone took the opportunity of a break in the weather to do the hike. We stopped for a longer lunch break on the top of the mountain - looking over the verdant uplands beyond, dotted with lakes and waterfalls. The trail continues across the top of Gros Morne with fine views to the north over Ten Mile Pond and out to the coast. As we walked across the top, two caribou stags came at speed across the plateau , crossing the trail not far from where we were. Presumably the second stag was pursuing the first to assert its dominance. We also saw a lone doe (?) and later a doe with a calf moving easily up the steep mountainside. The trail dropped down through Ferry Gulch round the back of the mountain less steeply than the path up and comes back round to meet the path that leads up The Gully. At the junction we came across a moose not far from the trail, doing what moose do best; eating. (Who am I to talk!) It didn't have antlers so I assume that it was either a cow or immature male. We watched it for a while and tried to get some decent photos though it clearly wasn't in the mood to pose. It stood with it's back to us, so I have some great shots of the arse-end of a moose.

We then just had the return walk of about 4 km to the the car park to complete a great days hiking - 16 km in just under 7 hours, including photo and food stops. As weary as we were we stile had to get back on out bikes. We cycled into Rocky Harbour to find somewhere to eat for a farewell meal. Mike and Kelly head back south tomorrow whilst I will be going north.

Distance: 18.8 km
Cycling time: 1:10
Total distance: 4489.7 km

Monday, 24 July 2006

Trout River to Rocky Harbour (Newfoundland)

It had been raining as we'd sat in the kitchen shelter listening to Cyril (the tide had been rising - a common time for it to rain according to Cyril. High tide was at around 11:30 pm) and although the morning was overcast it was mostly dry. I was planning to take the 10 am boat trip on Trout River Pond ($35) so I could afford to have a relaxed start to the day. I had some breakfast and then went into Trout River to find the boat tour office; it was closed, so I went in search of a cup of tea instead. There was a mist drifting from the sea and through Trout River, and it was heavy with smoke as I guess a lot of house must still burn wood for extra heating. The only place open was the Sunset Cafe, and I was immediately seduced by the cooked breakfast - so I had 2 breakfast within half an hour!

When I went back to the boat tour office it turned out that I was the only person interested in taking the tour, and they wouldn't go out with less than 8 people. I thought about doing the Trout River Pond hike instead, but the cloud base was very low and much of the walk looked like it was in the bush. As it was misty on the coast, that ruled out the coastal walks too.

I went back to the campground and packed up the tent. From Trout River there was a climb on the road up over 200 metres in a kilometre or two. It was cool and drizzly, but sheltered from the wind until I reached the top of the climb and was back on the Tablelands. The cloud was still clinging to the mountain tops here but was dry enough at least to stop and attempt some photos. It would have been great to see the Tablelands under a blue sky.

I don't like the system they have in North America of charging for access to National Parks. If you want to take a boat trip or do a hike you have to have at least a day-pass (which is quite expensive at $8.90) so I had a pass which covered me for the morning boat trip - which didn't run. A waste of money. A National Park should be a national resource paid for out of the national coffers and not by taxing the people who care enough about it to go and see it. Other than daily passes, you can only buy an annual pass - which isn't much good for a visiting tourist. It seems to be deliberately extorting as much possible from visitors and it puts me off from using the the park. I stopped at the Discovery Centre on the way back to register my complaint.

I cycled down to Woody Point and had lunch at the little Granite Coffee House while waiting for the library to open. I'm behind with the blog again and need to do some catching up. The library was quite busy and when I got booted off the PC I went to the Old Loft Restaurant for dinner. I was waiting for the 5:30 ferry across to Norris Point so I had some time to kill. I did a little more blogging before getting the ferry across Bonne Bay to Norris Point. The cloud still lay like a thick blanket over the hill tops and soon after I arrived on the other side it started to rain, so I pedalled off in search of the KOA campground where I knew Mike and Kelly might be from an email I'd received. They were still there so I squeezed onto their site for the night.

Distance: 49.6 km
Cycling time: 3:20
Total distance: 4470.9 km

Sunday, 23 July 2006

Lomond River Lodge to Trout River (Newfoundland)

A couple of beers is good for the muscles after a hard days cycling, I'm convinced of that. 6 or more chased down by a couple of shots of Screech is bad. Definitely makes you feel weary.

It stayed dry all night until 7 am, just as I was thinking of getting up. It was raining hard enough to keep us all in our tents for a couple of hours. Eventually I got up and discovered that they served breakfast in the little take-out next to the office. We sat having breakfast and waiting for the rain to ease off. I packed up the bike and when I set off it was barely raining at all. I forced my weary legs up the hills stopping only for some photos of the mountains with the clouds blowing in between. Don't know how they'll come out. Then there was a long fast downhill, [that I found out later is called 'The Struggle' by the locals] tucking down out of the wind I shot down, peaking at over 70 km/h to Glenburnie on the coast of Bonne Bay (Silent 'e')

It was a pretty ride all along the edge of the bay through Birchy Head and Shoal Brook to Winter House Brook. The cloud was lifting and it seemed as if it would stay dry for a while. The Gros Morne Discovery Centre is a short steep climb up from Winter House Brook and has some great views over the South Arm of Bonne Bay. I spent about 3 hours in the Discovery Centre, looking at the exhibits, watching the whales in Bonne Bay, sampling the jams made from the various local berries (apparently Bunchberry tastes like wet toilet paper but is very nutritious so it just gets used as a 'filler' with other berries!)

Mike and Kelly were there too but sadly left to get the ferry from Woody Point while I was in the theatre watching a couple of films about the geology and ecology of Gros Morne, so I didn't get to say goodbye or get a photo of them with their bikes. Yet again failed to get the people photo.

A little after 4 pm it looked as though the weather was closing in again so I decided to head off to Trout River. There were a couple of steep climbs on the way but once on the Tablelands I had a strong wind behind me and so I was bowling along at 40+ km/h on the flat. The Tablelands are interesting because the rock is very old and comes from deep in the earth - part of the earth's mantle that has been pushed up to the surface by the collision of tectonic plates that created the Appalachian range. Apparently it's unusual for rock from so deep to be at the surface and as it is toxic to most plants, since it contains metals such as nickel and copper, it is pretty barren. The road must travel along the fault line as one side of the valley is green, covered with pants, and the other side is the barren yellow rock of the Tablelands. Hopefully I'll get some good photos on the return journey, weather permitting.

The was a steep roll down into the little community of Trout River (I look forward to going back up there!) and I stopped at the Sunset Cafe, as they had internet, but ended up staying for dinner. A 'Chinese' meal with rice made a pleasant change from something and fries. I made a quick visit to the Interpretation Centre on the waterfront before cycling out to the campground next to the 'pond'. (Trout River Pond is a huge freshwater lake created when a glacially carved fjord became cut off from the sea.

The campground ($22.75 - ouch!) had a kitchen shelter with a wood burning stove, so I sat in there with a couple from Ontario, Mike and Kathy, who shared their Blueberry wine with me, while we sat listening to Cyril the campground warden as he talked about his life in Newfoundland. He'd been part of a family of 22 siblings growing up on a farm on the Burin Peninsula. 22 siblings and no twins. A child a year for 22 years! (How would you remember all the names?) They could only manage to survive because they had their own animals and grew most of their own food. The only food they used to buy was flour and sugar. They bought the flour in 100 lbs bags - and used the bags to make clothes out of - usually pants. (i.e. trousers) He started work on a fishing boat at 12 years old and had worked all his life. Even now he had 3 jobs and in his spare time built very detailed scale model boats - incredible for someone whose hands were like shovels. I wouldn't like to shake his hand - he'd break bones I'm sure. He wasn't a big man but each finger was easily fatter than my thumbs; from years of lifting 200 lb crates of lobster and fish. He knew so much about fishing, hunting, carpentry, etc. and had tales of how everything was done 'by hand' in the past. When they were hunting they might kill a moose, cut it in half and 2 men would carry it out, then turn round and go straight back for the other half. An incredibly tough life. Capelin only spawn when the males develop 'washboards' on their flanks. The female has a male on either side, pressing her to squeeze out the eggs as they swim up the beach onto the sand to spawn. So, a menage-a-trois then. Sounds great until you hear that the males die in the act of spawning. He spoke broad 'Newfanese' so was difficult to follow sometimes, but fascinating.

Distance: 45.1 km
Cycling time: 2:35
Total distance: 4421.3 km

Saturday, 22 July 2006

Deer Lake to Lomond River Lodge (Newfoundland)

Riddle for the day: What sucks when it blows?
(Email me if you have/want the answer)

The weather had started to break as it got dark, with the first few spots of rain. It rained quite a lot in the night - not heavy, but more of a thick drizzle - and in the morning the cloud was low and visibility was reduced by the drizzle. It didn't seem like a good day for cycling into Gros Morne National Park, so we were all thinking of having a rest day after our exertions. It's just a shame there wasn't much to do in Deer Lake; no internet open, no shops or nice cafes.

I lay in the tent struggling with Auracaria (Guardian cryptic crossword setter) and intermittently dozing while waiting to see if the weather would improve. In the end I gave up waiting and went out to Irvings for brunch, and bumped into Mike and Kelly coming out. They'd had the same idea and had been there for 2 hours reading the newspapers. We decided we'd consolidate the tents onto one campsite and with the money saved invest in another 6-pack of beer, but in the time I was having breakfast the weather improved quite a lot - the cloud lifted and there were some patches of blue sky - so I decided I might take the opportunity to move on.

Mike and Kelly weren't around at the campsite while I packed up, so I left a note and headed off on the 430 out of Deer Lake. It was still pretty warm, and with all the rain, pretty muggy. I was surprised that it was so warm as the wind was from the north - just the direction I was heading. The road was mostly uphill but with no steep hills to climb. En route I stopped at the Jack Ladder restaurant for a moose burger. If they're gonna keep hiding from me, I'm gonna keep eating 'em.

It's really nice the way people will just stop and chat to you; like PJ Fernandez who was just driving past in the opposite direction and stopped me for a chat. It occurred to me that Mike and Kelly might also decide to move on too with the better weather so I asked PJ to keep an eye out for them on the road and tell them I was heading for the Lomond River Lodge.

The weather was changeable. I was wetted and dried out a couple of times on the way to the campground at Lomond River lodge. It turned out to be quite a busy little campsite with cabins, a store, internet (slow dial-up) and a bar. ($15.96, showers free) Being a Saturday night they were having a band playing - hopefully not too noisily. While I was sitting in the office doing my emails, Mike and Kelly arrived. They hadn't seen PJ but had stopped at the first campsite along the road - much as I had done. They squeezed their tent onto my campsite; so we will get our beer together after all.

Distance: 48.6 km
Cycling time: 2:51
Total distance: 4376.2 km

Friday, 21 July 2006

Gaff Topsails to Deer Lake (Newfoundland)

It was a beautifully clear night with a crescent moon when I got up at 3 am, and from my vantage point I could see lights twinkling in the far distance in several directions near the horizon. It was cool and breezy but my tent was sheltered by the top of Gaff Topsails.

The sun must already have been up for a while when I roused myself at 6:30 am. I had a lot to do and a good distance to cycle, but I couldn't help wasting some time on a small act of revenge - killing as many mosquitoes as I could by squashing them between the 'inner' and 'outer' of the tent. They'd only be after my blood when I got out anyway. Of course it made little difference. In Scotland they have a saying about midges; 'Kill one and ten thousand come to the funeral'. Here ten thousand come expecting a funeral.

I checked over the bike, which I didn't have the chance to do last night, and found that on the rear pannier rack, 2 of the struts had broken their weld at the bottom from the other two, so I had to improvise another repair using a trusty cable-tie. Needless to say the mosquitoes had their revenge too. Their favourite places seem to be the back of your shoulders and arms where they just bite straight through your clothes.

Luckily I could manage to manhandle the bike back down the ATV path fully loaded and onto the T'Railway by 8 am. Already it was getting warm. 2 or 3 km down the trail was a collection of summer cabins, also called Gaff Topsails. Another 5 km further on was another collection of huts at Pond Crossing. Already my hands were starting to ache again. I was hoping that with there being more cabins on this side of Summit, the T'Railway would have had more traffic on it and therefore be more rideable. In general it was, although it was still tough going in places. Where the trail was narrow the ATV's would clear 2 narrow wheel tracks in which you could try to cycle. Of course which ever track you were in, the other side always looked better - but there was a big ridge of gravel in between to stop you from switching over.

After about 12 km the T'Railway became much broader, which wasn't always good news as the gravel was evenly distributed all over making progress hard and slow. Even when you had a clear patch and could get up some speed the T'Railway would soon bring back down to earth, or more precisely throw you up in the air, as you hit one of the many stones embedded in the track. In general though, the track was much better than yesterday and was also mainly a gradual downhill so progress was much faster; I covered the 40 km to Howley in 3 hours. I have never been more pleased to see tarmac!

I had been relying on getting water at Howley and had used up all my supply - I had an un-slakeable thirst this morning - my mouth felt permanently dry. I stopped at a house and of course they gave me water when I asked. Already it was 25 C in the shade and over 30 C in the sun. It peaked at 33 C by 2 pm. From Howley I had about 14 km to go to get back to the TCH (TransCanada Highway) and, heading north, the kilometres just flew past as I had the wind behind me. Bliss.

Once on the TCH though it was a different story, with the wind now in my face it seemed a long haul into Deer Lake. The wind wasn't too strong, but it just wasn't cooling at all. For the first time in Newfoundland, the wind was as hot as the weather. I felt weary and sore, and eeked out my water supply to last me the 28 km to Deer Lake. When I arrived I went first to the Visitor Information Centre to get a map and find out where the Post Office, internet and campground were. The was a water cooler in the VIC and I just chugged cone after cone of water. Then I went to the Irving gas station restaurant for a pot of tea; I was dusty and sweaty, but I didn't care, I was going in for my pot of tea regardless. With all the heat I didn't plan to eat, but in the cool of the restaurant I was again seduced by the breakfast. It's a good sized meal for a cyclist and good value too.

After several refills to my teapot I went out to the Post Office to collect my package (the freewheel removal tool mailed out from St. John's) and then went to check email before heading out to the campsite, located on the shore of Deer Lake. ($11, showers $1) The first priority after pitching the tent was a shower - what bliss it was to be clean once again. After my exertions of the last 2 days I needed a rest, so I had a siesta in the tent which was pitched in the cool of some shade. I was thinking of having a rest day in Deer Lake tomorrow, but the library is closed so there seems to be little to keep me here.

Later Mike and Kelly, the two Canadian cyclists I had met in Grand Falls arrived at the tent site next to mine. They had had a hard day too, having cycled 145 km against the wind on the TCH from South Brook. They invited me to have dinner with them, so I went out to buy a 6-pack of beer and we sat chatting until well after dark. A good end to a hard day. I'm sure we all slept well.

Distance: 94.8 km
Cycling time: 6:15
Total distance: 4327.6 km

Thursday, 20 July 2006

Grand Falls-Windsor to Gaff Topsail (Newfoundland)

The spectacular sunset had given way to a clear cool night, and when I got up the sun wasn't yet over the trees, so the tent was dripping with condensation. I had a quick breakfast and packed up the bike and set off at 7:30 while it was still cool. The campsite was right next to the TCH - although far enough not to be bothered with traffic noise - so I could wheel the bike across a gravel patch and onto the road without cycling the 2 km back to junction 17. I stayed on the TCH for a few km until a point where the T'Railway crossed underneath the road. There I wheeled the bike down the steep track onto the Trail.

The section from Grand Falls was rated as grade 'A' in the book I'd seen but it must have deteriorated somewhat in the 3 years since the book was published. With the ATV (All Terrain Vehicles - i.e. quad-bikes) traffic going along it, it was starting to corrugate and there was a lot of loose gravel. Now more 'B' than 'A'. As I had over 100 km to do on gravel roads and the T'Railway further on, I switched back onto the TCH a few km further on - to save the bike from any extra punishment. (I'm still 'spoke-paranoid'!)

It was 9 am by the time I reached Badger and already it was starting to feel hot. I stopped at Kellie's Motel Restaurant for a pot of tea as this was probably the last bit of civilization I'd see today. From Badger I was planning to take the Buchan Highway (route 370) and then the gravel road to Millertown Junction, and then pick up the T'Railway from there. I asked in the restaurant about the state of the T'Railway, and they thought it was rough but rideable. I set off from Kellie's Restaurant just after 10 am and it took me over 3 hours to travel the 24 km to Millertown Junction. The T'Railway was used by logging trucks at the Badger end and so was wide and bumpy, but not too gravelly. (C) The last 10 km though to Millertown Junction was very gravelly and in places was unrideable (E) - there were long stretches where I had to walk, dragging the bike through the gravel. At least it was a workout for my arms. Imagine trying to cycle on a shingle beach. Impossible!)

At Millertown Junction there were a few houses and cabins; there was one with a garden sloping down to the lake with a picnic table near the water - I decide to stop and ask if I could use the picnic table for my lunch. As it happened I'd chosen the house of Mont Lingard - THE expert on the Newfoundland Railway and has done much to document it's history, publishing a series of books on the subject - which I'd seen for sale in Kellie's Motel Restaurant. Mont wasn't there at the time as he was picking up his fourth son (Cory) from the airport, but I met Craig Lingard who immediately offered me water, tea, coffee, beer, food, use of the washroom and shower. I accepted a tea (although a beer was tempting) It turned out that they were having a family reunion - the first for 15 years. Soon two other brothers arrived, Brad and Blair, and an assortment of wives, ex-wives, children and grand-children. I was part of one big family. Craig called up Mike Shufelt, who is from Maine but first came here back in 1987 just before the railway closed down, fell in love with the place, and took a lot of the photos for Mont's books. He is also a keen cyclist and came over to give me some advice about the T'Railway from Millertown to Howley. They invited me to stay for the party in the evening but I needed to get further along the T'Railway so that I can be sure to get to Deer Lake before the Post Office closes at 5pm. They suggested I at least wait a while to meet Mont Lingard as I'd find him interesting and he'd be pleased to meet me. I waited until 4:30, but decided I couldn't wait any longer as I had a hard ride ahead of me. Little did I realise quite how hard.

The first 6 km from Millertown Junction, the T'Railway was also used by logging trucks and was tough going. I had to pull over to the side of the trail to let one truck past in a cloud of dust. At least the trucks did a little to clear a path through the gravel. The next 2 km were even tougher - at the absolute limit of rideability - for me anyway. It was a full body workout with the front and back wheels sliding in different directions and the bike bucking and jarring on the rough surface. And so it went on for mile after mile, hour after hour. I'm sure there isn't a bit of me that won't ache tomorrow.

It was still a hot day, and I was getting through my water supply. I'd been told that there was a spring about 10 miles along the T'Railway from Millertown Junction, and when I got there I filled every available container I had - about 4 litres - an extra 4 kg to carry. They'd also told me about a great place to camp which was 34 km along the T'Railway from Millertown Junction, so that was where I was headed. I was exhausted, and the kilometres seemed to go by very slowly, as if it were miles being measured and not kilometres, which is perhaps not surprising given the conditions. It took me four and a half hours to cycle those 34 km. The countryside around the T'Railway was beautiful, but I barely had time to enjoy it as virtually my full concentration was needed to control the bike. The only time I got to look at the view was when I skidded to a halt - which happened many times. I could have cycled past moose, caribou or even herds of wildebeest sweeping majestically across the plain. (a la Basil Fawlty)

To make matters worse, I had to keep stopping to sort out one of the front panniers which kept coming loose from the rack with all the jarring. (I'd lost one of the clip spacers that fit it to the rack snugly) I had to try to improvise ways to keep it in place. Then I began having problems with the front fork quick release coming loose again, which meant that the front wheel was loose in the forks. However tight I could get it, unbelievably, it would come loose again after only a couple of hundred metres. By now the sun was getting low and casting shadows on the trail which made it difficult to judge or shining in my eyes making it equally hard to see. Every time I stopped to sort out the bike, I was plagued by mosquitoes after my blood - and some of them got it too. My fingers were cramping from battling with the handlebars for hours on end. It was without doubt the hardest cycling I've ever done, and possibly the most arduous thing I've ever done.

I passed Summit, the highest point on the T'Railway, so I knew I only had another 4 miles (6 km) to go to Gaff Topsails where I was advised I would get great views at the campsite. Unfortunately it meant an extra ordeal; from the T'Railway I had to push the bike up a rough ATV track for nearly a kilometre to a concrete platform that is the base of what used to be a radio relay station during WWII. The track was so steep and rough that I had to carry as much as I could to the top on one trip, then come back for the bike and the rest. The sun was setting as I arrived at Gaff Topsails at 9 pm and it took me until 9:30 to carry everything up to the platform and pitch the tent. It was too late to think about cooking with all the mosquitoes around, so I feasted on what I had in the tent.

And the view? It was fantastic, although I didn't have long to enjoy it. Was it worth the effort of the day? I'd have to say not, but it was some recompense and maybe with hindsight I'll remember the view and not the agony. It's certainly not a trip I'd recommend, and if I could go back in time, I'd talk myself out of it.

And of course, I'm only halfway to Howley, so I've got it all to do again tomorrow. :-) (If I have the energy.

I'm tired and dusty, man, could I ever use a shower...

Distance: 87.2 km
Cycling time: 8:02
Total distance: 4232.8 km

Wednesday, 19 July 2006

Gander to Grand Falls-Windsor (Newfoundland)

Last night was, as ever, a great evening with great food and great, relaxed company. As we heading across Newfoundland in opposite directions we were able to swap stories on where we'd been and what we'd done. John was asking me what my plans were, which forced me to admit what I've been thinking for a while; that getting across Canada is now not really feasible given the distance, the time available, and possibly the prevailing winds...! He'd also seconded guessed the thought I had to travel down the St. Lawrence bay and river to make a tour. It seems to make sense to have a target in mind, so I'll have to decide where I want to make my end-point. Still, plenty of time to think about that.

I'd woken in the night with a headache (can't be because of the 1 beer I'd had!) and I lay awake for ages before bothering to get the Aspirin tablets as they were out in the tent porch - buzzing with mosquitoes. As a result, I didn't make a very early start, but did well to be on the go by 8 am. I cycled on the outskirts of Gander to find the T'Railway. When I did find it, it was rough, with big loose gravel - surely this couldn't be what they rated as grade 'A'? After nearly a kilometre, just past Little Cobb Pond, the trail improved dramatically - it was hard-packed and flat. This was definitely grade 'A'. The Rolls-Royce of cycle-paths (with only the occasional pot-hole or gravel patch) All the way to Appleton (22 km) was easy and fast cycling, but not much in the way of views as the bush is regrowing at the side of the trail.

At least there was some wildlife to see - small mice, voles (?) and squirrels darting across the track, a rabbit and of course lots of wildflowers, red elderberry, bunchberries coming into fruit. Next to the track was the occasional lake with white and yellow flowered lilies. Dragonflies zoomed along beside me like little fighter escorts. Butterflies fluttered - they are mostly quite big - or small; nothing in between. Even the annoying Deer Flies that buzz round your head and will bite you given the chance had beautiful iridescent green eyes and tessellated wing patterns. And of course there were signs that moose had been there...
From Glenwood to Notre Dame Junction the trail was rougher with more loose sand and sharp gravel which made the going tougher as the day was getting hotter. I would rate this section as 'B' with patches of 'C' There was nowhere to stop at Notre Dame Junction - I was cycling through what looked like a caravan graveyard - but there were people around. I spied a sign for the Valley Lounge Restaurant 10 km further on at Norris Arm, so I kept going...

By the time I arrived, it was nearly 1 pm and 34 C and I had covered nearly 63 km. I was hot, dusty and thirsty, so it was good to stop for lunch in the shade and cool down. I decided I really should try the Cod Tongues - considered something of a delicacy in Newfoundland. I wouldn't normally eat something which has been in someone else's mouth, but I made an exception in this case. An unusual mix of chewy and soft. (and fishy)

The Norris Arm Library was closed for childrens reading hour, so I headed off once again. I was back on the road as the T'Railway was rated 'D/E' for the next section. I followed the 351 road for a short way and ended up back on the TCH. A lorry immediately thundered past a couple of feet away in welcome as I started a long uphill climb. Once at the top I was struck by how big the sky seemed, and what few clouds there were only seemed to emphasize the distance to the horizon. It's just a shame there was no high point from which to take a panoramic picture. Awesome view.

At the first junction available I detoured into Bishop Falls to go to the library there and escape the heat for a while. Although I still felt quite strong, my leg muscles felt tight when I got back on the bike - but then I guess I had been cycling for nearly 6 hours in the heat. My map didn't show it, but the road through Bishop Falls shadowed the TCH and rejoined it further along (up a short steep climb) so at least I didn't have to cycle all the way back to the junction.

I only had another 20 km or so to go to Grand Falls-Windsor and several more hours of daylight, so I was in no rush. I stopped at the Irving gas station restaurant for a cup of tea and ended up having a cooked breakfast - at 5 pm! (Well, I do have a ritual to maintain now) A breakfast also isn't too filling, which you don't want on a bicycle.

It was 6 pm and much cooler when I set off again on the TCH past all the junctions into Grand Falls-Windsor until the last one - junction 17. The tourist information office was closed when I got there - they'd obviously decided to knock off early - so I headed into town and saw a sign for a campsite, which was a couple of kilometres out of town. Beothuck Park ($15, showers free) In spite of all the cycling I'd already done today, I cycled back into town to the Dominion supermarket as they do a probiotic Organic Vanilla yogurt to die for. I had a craving.

There were two Canadian cyclists in the campsite opposite mine, Mike and Kelly, so we sat and exchanged cycling tales as we sat under a fantastic crimson sunset - so hopefully another sunny day tomorrow...

Distance: 119.7 km
Cycling time: 7:35
Total distance: 4145.6 km

Tuesday, 18 July 2006

A rest day in Gander

The campsite looked like a big RV parking lot. I was the only tent. It still seems a little odd to my British eyes to see such big 'caravans' and the big RV buses that are also towing another car or SUV.

Gander is a new town in Newfoundland terms. Originally it was simply chosen as the site for a new airport to act as a staging post on trans-Atlantic flights and served an important role during the war. After the war the airport was returned to civilian control and that was really when the town of Gander began to develop.

I had a long list of things to do in Gander. First off I went to the offices of the T'Railway Provincial Park which are located here in Gander to see if I could get any more information about the trail. They couldn't tell me much more than I already knew other than the section from Badger to Deer Lake (which goes straight across country away from the TCH) isn't quite as remote and unpopulated as it looks on the map. That's good news and bad. Good if I get problems and need help. It's supposedly quite nice.

Because of my problems with breaking spokes, and the lack of bike shops, I had decided I needed to try to improvise a chain-whip and get hold of a cassette removal tool. I ordered the tool from Canary Cycles in St.John's to be posted to Deer Lake for collection 'General Delivery' as I should be there by Friday. I bought a small adjustable wrench from Canadian Tire, and Brett at the bike shop (S&P Sports) salvaged some old chain for me to try to improvise a chain whip with.

I had lunch at the Ocean View Chinese restaurant (Ocean View? In Gander? That's a bit optimistic!) They had an all you can eat buffet for $6.99 - Now there's a challenge for a hungry cyclist! I didn't have time to visit the Aviation Museum, but I did make it out to the Thomas Howe Demonstration Forest for a personal free guided tour. Quite interesting.

Back in the bike shop they told me that someone had been in asking after me - which can only mean that John and Kathy are in town... They found me as I was going in to the library which meant that either they'd spotted me cycling around town, or they'd staked out the library. They know my MO includes a dependency on free internet access! It was great to see what feels like old friends again. They invited me to dinner, so I look forward to hearing about where they've been since last we met.

Distance: 26.9 km
Cycling time: 1:44
Total distance: 4025.9 km

Monday, 17 July 2006

Newman Sound Campground, Terra Nova National Park to Gander (Newfoundland)

It was yet another cold grey morning and quite breezy. Don't they ever get summer here? I wanted to get to Gander as early as possible so that I could find the bike shop with enough spare time for them to fix my broken spoke, so I was up at a reasonably early time and on the road by 7:10 am. Heading out of the campsite I came across a black and grey fox in the road. We stared at each other for a moment then he disappeared into the trees.

the TCH was fairly quiet as it was still early, but there were a few more lorries around than yesterday as it was now a new working week. The cycling was easy but not too exciting, with only the occasional glimpse of Newman Sound through the trees. When I got to the Glovertown junction, I took the detour downhill in search of breakfast and a view of something other than the trees. I ended up at Noah's on the Point, down by the water of Alexander Bay. As I sat and ate breakfast,I could see the sun starting to brighten the opposite side of the bay. When I asked about the library for internet, they let me use their dial-up internet in the office as they thought that the library was closed on Mondays. it still amazes me how much people will go out of their way to help you here.

I toiled back up hill into the wind to rejoin the TCH - but I'm complaining about that as I finally had some sun once again. From Glovertown to Gambo was only another 20 km, but I decided to stop there for lunch as there was probably nothing else for the next 40 km to Gander. Have you ever seen a film where starving men are given food, and they shovel it in with both hands, their cheeks bulging? That's how I think I must look like sometimes - there's never a scrap left on my plate. I checked out the T'Railway but decided it would be silly to cycle that way with a broken spoke.

For once I had made a sensible decision. It was hot and muggy as I cycled to Gander, and when I was still 20 km away, I heard, and felt, a ping as another spoke broke on my back wheel. Luckily it was on the opposite side from the other broken spoke and 90 degrees away, but now the wheel was buckled to both sides and would have been comical under other circumstances. Now I really was limping along, watching for every stone and dip in the road. At least it added a bit of excitement to my day - would I make it or wouldn't I? Would my wheel disintegrate if I hit a bump going downhill at speed?

I rolled gingerly into Gander at 3 pm and found the Fraser Mall. The bike shop didn't look too promising - more of a sport clothes shop - but the mechanic, Brett, was slick and efficient and had me fixed up pretty quickly. I'm sure that there must be a market for a decent set of cycle-touring tools to cover most cycling problems, but I've yet to find one.

When I went to the internet to check my emails, I found that my new friends Kathy and John were coming to Gander tomorrow night, so I decided to had a rest day in Gander tomorrow, which would give me the chance to try to sort out some additional bike tools. I went to the Dominion supermarket and splurged on food as the Country Inn Trailer Park was only a couple of kilometres out of town. Of course splurged is a relative term - for me it's what you can carry on a bike; a big pot of vanilla yogurt, cinnamon rolls and bananas for breakfast. Cherries, a bowl of salad, olives and feta cheese in olive oil. Luxury items for me!

Distance: 105.9 km
Cycling time: 5:55
Total distance: 3999.0 km

Sunday, 16 July 2006

Charleston to Newman Sound Campground, Terra Nova National Park (Newfoundland)

It was grey and drizzling when I first got up, but a big patch of blue sky with the moon in opened up as if to encourage me. It soon disappeared but by 8:45 I was on the road. The wind had moved back around to the south west and luckily was fairly light, but by 9 am it was already 2 degrees warmer than it had managed for the last couple of days. It was also lucky that I hadn't had too early a start to the day as I turned off the route 230 following signs for the Old Barracks Cafe and Gift Shop, arriving just as they opened at 10 am. They served me one of the best breakfasts I've had in a long while, with a huge pot of tea. I don't ever remember having strawberries with a fry-up before. Cutting the warm runny yolk from a fried egg is for me becoming a ritual akin to drinking the blood of a virgin sacrifice.

The Bonavista Peninsula is more wooded and less barren than other parts of Newfoundland I've seen. there is also some agriculture here - some dairy farming and fruit growing. From Musgravetown there wasn't too much to see as most of the time the road was lined with trees though there was the occasional view of Clode Sound. I was just happy that it was staying dry and relatively warm at 18 C. I arrived into Port Blandford just after noon; as I cycled across the causeway I was dive-bombed by a couple of terns. I tried to get some photos (keeping my cycling helmet on) but they were just too quick. I had the occasional wing, or nothing, in the frame.

From Port Blandford I was back on the TCH (TransCanada Highway) and for the rest of the day would be cycling through the Terra Nova National Park, so I figured that there wouldn't be much, if anything, in the way of services on the road, so I stopped for lunch at a little gas station restaurant. The TCH was hilly, but the hills were never too steep so it was fairly easy-going. Again the views were mostly hidden by the trees, but there was the occasional glimpse of Clode Sound - this time from the other [north] side - I'd cycled most of the way around it.

It got much warmer in the afternoon and as I arrived at the Newman Sound campground (Camping $20.80 + Adult park fee $5.45) there was even a brief flash of sun - the only one all day. I decided to stop even though it was only 4:30 as it would give me a chance to dry the tent and check the bike over. While I was servicing the bike I found that I had another broken spoke on the rear wheel. It may even have broken as I was testing the spoke tensioning. Damn. Again it was on the freewheel cassette side which I don't have the tools to fix. There were bear warnings in the park, so again I had my front panniers suspended in a nearby tree. (Of course I forgot I had some sweets on the front of my bar-bag!)

In the campsite I met Jean and Fiona - from Newfoundland and Scotland (but living in Newfoundland for the last 19 years) - who were also cycling and had a book on the TransCanada Trail in Newfoundland (i.e. the T'Railway) The book breaks the trail down into sections and rates them from A to E. A being Good, B = Okay, C = Do-able, D = bad, E = only for the die-hards or suicidal. ('Sense of humour required' - or bones of rubber) The section I'd cycled near Arnolds Cove was rated D/E. No wonder I'd found it so hard. The book also told me that the nearest bike shop was in Gander. Part of the route I'm cycling tomorrow, Gambo to Gander, (40km) is rated as 'A', but with a broken spoke I should probably stay on the TCH... I'll decide tomorrow.

Distance: 90.7 km
Cycling time: 5:12
Total distance: 3893.1 km

Saturday, 15 July 2006

Cape Bonavista to Charleston (Newfoundland)

It must have rained during the night, although I hadn't heard it, as the tent and ground were sopping wet in the morning. It was a grey dismal looking morning. I packed up and headed back into Bonavista, to the little coffee shop with internet, for some breakfast. The cafe was busy with about a dozen [older] locals drinking coffee and arguing noisily.

As most tourist sites don't open until 10 am I had some time to do some blog before going to have a look at the Mockbeggar Plantation. Originally a fishing premises, the plantation has had several owners over its history. Of the remaining buildings only the residence is open to the public and is furnished according to how it might have looked in approx. 1939, the time when it was first occupied by F Gordon Bradley. He was instrumental in the campaign for Newfoundland to become part of Canada in 1949 rather be ruled from London.

From the Mockbeggar Plantation I went to 'Ye Matthew Lagacy' where they have an interpretation centre and a full scale replica of Giovanni Caboto's 1497 vessel - a caravel named the Matthew. (http://www.matthewlegacy.com/) the ship is surprisingly small, with a crew of just 20 men, when they sailed under commission of the English Crown to discover the New Founde Lande at Bonavista on June 24 1497.

By now it was lunchtime so I found a restaurant for a light lunch before heading out of Bonavista on the 'scenic route' 235 along the coast. It was quite a pleasant cycle - or would have been were it not for the cold rain and drizzle most of the afternoon. The hills weren't too big or steep and there were some good views of the coast, but there was nowhere to stop all afternoon and the only way to keep warm was to keep cycling. It was certainly too cold and wet to stop for a picnic along the way.

By 5 pm I was back on the route 230 that I had cycled along 3 days ago, and I only had a few more kilometres to go to reach the Cabot HiWay Campground. ($8, showers free) The owners were really kind and friendly; once I'd pitched the tent in a nice quiet spot by the lake, they gave me some soup and coffee and we chatted for a while before I went off for a shower and do some laundry. They even gave me some washing powder and a tumble-drier 'sheet' for free. My clothes have never smelt so good.

The insects haven't been much of a problem recently, but as it got dark the mossies kept me prisoner in the tent once I was in.

Distance: 79.9 km
Cycling time: 4:36
Total distance: 3802.4 km

Friday 14 July 2006

Trinity to Cape Bonavista (Newfoundland)

It was cold and cloudy in the morning, so I went back to 'bed' and treated myself to a lie-in. When I finally got up it took me much longer than usual to pack up, partly because I'd spent two nights in the same place so the tent was a bit more of a mess than usual, and also because I'd had to unpack the two front panniers to dry them out as they tend to leak a little in very wet weather.

It was after 10 am when I finally set off. Newfoundland isn't making things easy for me weather-wise; just when I could have done with one more day of wind from the south-west, I had to battle into a wind from the east - which could account for why it's turned so so the past couple of days. It was definitely a two-layer day for cycling as my cycle-computer was showing just 12 or 13 degrees Celsius.

It was a slow, cold, grey, hilly, chilly ride. After nearly 2 hours I had got as far as Port Union where I stopped at The Seaport Inn to rest and have lunch. To Bonavista was only another 15 km and as I was now cycling north the wind was less of a problem. The Ryan Premises in Bonavista is a National Historic Site of Canada. The remaining buildings represent part of the old Ryan estate established by James Ryan, a merchant, who imported goods to 'sell' to the fishermen in return for their salt cod. As the merchants controlled the prices for both the imported goods and the fish, he controlled the market and could keep the fisherfolk indebted whilst becoming immensely rich themselves. The millionaires of their day. So business practices never really change then. The Ryans also had premises in Trinity. The local fishing industry was incredibly productive, labour-intensive and hard.

The library was closed by the time I got there but I found a little cafe that had internet (The only place I've seen selling moose pie or caribou pie!) I cycled out through the Dungeon Provincial Park to the Cape Bonavista lighthouse with its colonies of puffin and other seabirds. By now it was getting late so I needed to find somewhere to camp for the night. I'd passed a little cafe on the road to the lighthouse, so on the way back I stopped and asked if I could camp in their garden - which gave me some shelter from the wind.

Distance: 63.5 km
Cycling time: 3:51
Total distance: 3722.5 km

Thursday, 13 July 2006

Trinity, Newfoundland

It was still clear and chilly in the morning as I got up and cycled into Trinity to take some photos while it was calm and quiet. I had plenty of time to kill before the Dock Marina opened for breakfast at 9 am. It's such a beautiful area with hiking and historic sites that I was spoiled for choice for things to do. In the end I decided to talk the guided historic walking tour of Trinity which took up the rest of the morning - two and a half hours that I found really interesting. It was lead by Kevin Toope, a local man who is now a schoolteacher in St. John's but who runs the walking tours in the summer. (http://www.wordplay.com/trinity/)

Trinity is designated as an 'historic area' for two-thirds of the town so building and renovation have to be done in an appropriate manner. The town was originally a fishing port to rival St. John's (they're very different now) but soon came to be controlled by merchants rather than fishermen. The town gets it's name from the three arms that make up the harbour.

In the afternoon it started to cloud over, and the wind was chilly all day, but I cycled around to East Trinity to walk the Skerwink Trail. I read somewhere that it was voted one of the top ten best walks in North America. It's only 5.3 km long and does have some fine views of the cliffs and across the bay to Trinity. Maybe if you hiked it on a sunny day with whales and icebergs drifting by... Walking at a leisurely pace with photo stops and a lunch stop, I was around the loop in 2 hours. Twinflowers were in bloom everywhere in the forested parts of the walk.

On this mornings tour I was told that a railway had been planned for Trinity but had never opened. The start of the Skerwink trail in East trinity on the other side of the bay is on an old rail bed - and on the cycle round I'd seen a rough track below the road - so I took a chance and followed the old rail track. It did go all the way back around the bay to Trinity. It was a rough, tough ride, but just about manageable on a mountain bike without too much luggage, although it did take me nearly an hour to get back to the campsite - about 9 km.

After I made myself some dinner (for a change) I went back into Trinity, to the library until they booted me out at closing time, 9 pm. I'd found out from Kevin Toope after the tour where the Whitlocks lived. (Obviously he knows everyone in town) I'd met James and Carol at breakfast one morning in St. John's when they'd overheard me talking about the outports on the south coast and they came over to talk to me as they were interested in visiting them too. They'd asked me to call in on them if I ever made it to Trinity. So I finished the evening with some pleasant company and a couple of beers.

Distance: 31.5 km
Cycling time: 2:26
Total distance: 3659.0 km

Wednesday, 12 July 2006

Arnolds Cove to Trinity (Newfoundland)

Lew had left one of his rods with me so I was up at 5:30 to see if I had any better luck this morning. It was still breezy and foggy, and although there seemed to be the occasional trout jumping at the surface I didn't get so much as a nibble. Eventually I gave up, and packed to move on. I was back on the TCH by 7:30 and cycled the 23 km to Goobies where I stopped once again for breakfast. I've never had so many cooked breakfasts.

When I set off again the fog had lifted but it was still overcast. I had another 27 km to go on the TCH to get to Clarenville, and there were some great views along the way, especially once the TCH reached the coast. I spent an hour and a half in Diversion CyberCafe uploading photos and blog before buying some snacks to picnic on along the way. I took route 230 out of Clarenville along the coast past Random Island and onto the Bonavista Peninsula. The route was quite hilly and for the first part there wasn't much to see as the road was lined with a mixture of conifer and birch forest. I stopped at a gas station to check my tyre pressures (and have an ice cream) and everyone was really friendly and interested in what I was doing and where I was from. The garage employee, the shop assistant, even the customers were joining in. "Meet this guy, he's cycled all the way from Boston. Yis Boy" It was quite entertaining and fun. They also warned me that rain was on the way. They were right.

By 3 pm it was spitting and by 4 pm I was drenched once again. I didn't stop to put on my rain-jacket as I was in a hurry to get to Trinity. The last 20 km into Trinity was beautiful, but because of the rain there was no chance of a photo. I turned off the 230 road onto the 239 and these last 3 km were alongside the water - a pretty scenic entrance. The Trinity Cabins (& campground) was right at the start of the community and I stood dripping at the doorway of the office while they explained to me where I could pitch my tent - which I did as quickly as I could manage in the rain. once inside, I mopped the floor with my already wet clothes, towelled dry, put on some dry clothes and went to pay ($11.40) and find out where the Rising Tide Theatre was. They had a theatre/dinner starting at 5:30, so I just had time to leap back on the bike and cycle into Trinity itself, which I discovered is stunningly pretty, even in the wet. Almost picture postcard perfect.

I was just in time for the dinner, which was accompanied with a range of folk songs, music and comedy sketches, etc. which was very good, except that I was right at the back of the hall so I couldn't always catch what was being said. Dinner and the entertainment took almost 2 hours after which they had to convert the dinner hall into theatre seating for the evening play. I was still hungry, so I went to the Dock Marina Restaurant for a snack, and an opportunity to write diary until the theatre doors opened again for 'No Man's Land' - a play by Kevin Major from his novel of the same name.

"July 1st, 1916 is remembered as the day the best and brightest of a generation of young Newfoundland men were virtually wiped out. From every bay and cove and town, from fishing stage to merchant's home, they marched off to the great war, proud members of their very own Newfoundland Regiment. They never suspected what one terrible morning of treachery would bring. The Battle of Beaumont Hamel is considered the greatest tragedy in our history. In the midst of that horror were real people, much like the sons and fathers of any era. And beyond the trenches were lovers and mothers and others who held them dear. Through this play you will see why we hold to this July morning with such force, why it will never be forgotten."

I'm not ashamed to say it brought a tear to my eye; but then I'm a sucker for anything sad. The play was very well staged and acted. I'm not going to waste words trying to describe it as I could never do it justice. In sentiment, it's perhaps very like one of my cycling songs, performed by The Pogues on their "Rum, Sodomy and the Lash" album; "And the band played Waltzing Matilda"

When I was a young man I carried my pack
And I lived the free life of a rover
From the Murrays green basin to the dusty outback
I waltzed my Matilda all over
Then in nineteen fifteen my country said Son
It's time to stop rambling 'cause there's work to be done
So they gave me a tin hat and they gave me a gun
And they sent me away to the war

And the band played Waltzing Matilda
As we sailed away from the quay
And amidst all the tears and the shouts and the cheers
We sailed off to Gallipoli

How well I remember that terrible day
How the blood stained the sand and the water
And how in that hell that they called Suvla Bay
We were butchered like lambs at the slaughter
Johnny Turk he was ready, he primed himself well
He chased us with bullets, he rained us with shells
And in five minutes flat he'd blown us all to hell
Nearly blew us right back to Australia

And the band played Waltzing Matilda
As we stopped to bury our slain
We buried ours and the Turks buried theirs
Then we started all over again

Now those that were left, did our best to survive
In a mad world of blood, death and fire
And for seven long weeks I kept myself alive
While the corpses around me piled higher
Then a big Turkish shell knocked me arse over tit
And when I awoke in my hospital bed
And saw what it had done, Christ I wished I was dead
Never knew there were worse things than dying

For no more I'll go waltzing Matilda
To the green bushes so far and so near
For to hump tent and pegs, a man needs two legs
No more waltzing Matilda for me

So they collected the cripples, the wounded, the maimed
And they shipped us back home to Australia
The armless, the legless, the blind, the insane
Those proud wounded heroes of Suvla
And as our ship docked back at Circular Quay
I looked down to the place where my legs used to be
And thanked Christ there was nobody waiting for me
To grieve and to mourn and to pity

And the band played Waltzing Matilda
As they carried us down the gangway
But nobody cheered, they just stood and stared
Then turned all their faces... away

So now every April I sit on my porch
And I watch the parade pass before me
And I see my old comrades, how proudly they march
Reliving old dreams of past glory
But I see only old men all twisted and torn
The forgotten heroes of a forgotten war
And when the young people ask me, "What are they marching for?"
And I ask myself the same question

And the band still plays Waltzing Matilda
And the veterans still answer the call
But year after year their numbers get fewer
Some day no one will march there at all

So a Waltzing Matilda, Waltzing Matilda
Who'll come a waltzing Matilda with me

Afterwards as I was cycling back to the campsite, a car pulled up and a familiar looking face leaned out and shouted "It's too late to go to bed, follow me!" Ed Kielly had played the part of Governor Davidson in the play; he'd seen me arrive into Trinity earlier, soaking wet. I ended up back at his house with a small crowd including some other members of the cast having a drink before we moved on to Rocky's Lounge - the only bar in town - where they have a "Dance-Up" on Wednesday evenings; traditional Newfoundland music and dancing. Fortunately I didn't have to dance (I have two left feet) It was after 1 am by the time I finally got back to my wet tent. It had rained heavily during the dinner/theatre, but had been dry by the time the evening play was on, which was lucky for the performers as they had to march around outside as part of the play, and the evening ended clear but very cold as the wind had shifted around to the north-east.

Distance: 121.0 km
Cycling time: 5:33
Total distance: 3627.5 km

Tuesday, 11 July 2006

Irish Loop RV Resort to Arnold Cove (Newfoundland)

It was raining in the early morning so may start to the day was a little delayed. When I set off at 8:45 it was overcast but dry. After about 8 km I was back on the dreaded TCH (TransCanada Highway) and almost immediately I felt like I was almost sucked under a big articulated lorry as it sped past right next to me. If I thought that was bad, it was soon raining. Then pouring. Then the thunder and lightning started. I couldn't see much and just hoped that drivers could see me better. I had nowhere to hide - I was stuck on the big wide open TCH with the lightning cracking around me. It wasn't long before I was struck by lightning and killed stone dead. Luckily they have internet cafes in heaven so I can continue my blog. They only have Mac's though; if you want to use Microsoft you have to go to hell. (Old joke) Heaven's quite a nice place as all the religious zealots get sent to hell. It turned out to be a clerical error and it wasn't my time to go at all, so I was sent back down to my own private hell; slogging along the TCH in the rain.

Just as I arrived at junction 28 the rain stopped and so did I - back at Monty's Restaurant once again. This time when I went to the washroom I hung my dripping wet rain-jacket over the door with the dodgy lock to prevent any repeat embarrassments. I was sopping wet and as wrinkled as a prune. I had a long breakfast which allowed me to start drying out. From Monty's Restaurant I rode 5 km into Whitburne to see if the library was open; it didn't open until 1 pm so I went to the Whitburne Heritage Museum to kill some time - about 10 minutes was the most I could manage by reading slowing and forcing an interest in the most mundane items. No kidding, they had one exhibit was read "Wooden handle - from unidentified item"! Wow. You wouldn't want to make a special trip here. At least the sun was now shining, so I went back and sat on the library steps and waited for it to open.

There are some great place names around the Avalon Peninsula; Sunnyside, Come By Chance, Heart's Desire, Heart's Delight, Heart's Content.

I cycled back to the TCH for an afternoons cycling north-west. The wind was a treacherous companion all afternoon, either blowing in my face or buffeting me from the side - but at least trying to blow me off the road and not into it. I was grateful to all those lorry drivers who moved over when they could (most) and those that didn't - hopefully they'll be Microsoft users in the afterlife!

The last 20 km was hillier, as I knew it would be - and beautiful. Around 5 pm I saw a big bank of cloud ahead of me which I thought was rain, but it turned out to be fog. So I cycled from bright sunshine into fog and then in a couple of kilometres back out into the sunshine. The fog seemed to be sitting in just that one place. Odd.

I arrived back at the Putt 'n' Paddle campground near Arnolds Cove at about 6:30 pm. Having pitched my tent, I went up to the office to pay and met up with the owner again, Lew Osmond. Lew remembered his promise to take me fishing if I came back that way and immediately dropped everything. We grubbed up some worms for bait and then set out in the boat onto 'the pond'. By this time the fog had descended and it was starting to get dark. We tried our luck for a while, but the boat was drifting too fast in the wind, so we went back and tried our luck from the shore. I didn't have any beginners luck, and Lew only landed one small trout that was too small so it went back for another day. Soon it was too dark to see what we were doing, so we called it a day. At least it had been fun trying; my first time fishing.

Distance: 102.3 km
Cycling time: 5:37
Total distance: 3506.5 km

Monday, 10 July 2006

Trepassey to Irish Loop RV Resort

I awoke feeling refreshed and happier. The was no sound of the wind, and when I looked outside, all was calm (hurrah!) but wet and foggy (boo!) I went along for breakfast and then had a lie-down to let it digest - just because I could. By the time I set off at 9 am the wind was starting to pick up again but there was some sun illuminating Trepassy Harbour through the low cloud. The road went all the way around the harbour and then climbed up onto the barrens - and into the wind and fog.

This area of wilderness is home to the worlds most southerly herd of caribou, some 3000 strong. I figured I didn't have much chance of seeing them in the fog unless they were on the road. They weren't. The 35 km across the barrens was hard going once again in the wind and fog, and pretty boring with nothing to see. I finally dropped down under the cloud as the road came back down to sea level at Peters River. I'm sure that this area and on through St Vincents and Holyrood Pond is quite scenic, but not today. I cycled on for another hour and then stopped at the first restaurant I'd seen since leaving Trepassey; the Harbour View Pub and Restaurant, just past St Marys.

A few kilometres further along the road I saw a C@P site in Riverhead and stopped for a hour to do some blog. By the time I came out at 3:30 the cloud had cleared and the sun was shining. I set off once again and hadn't got far when I was stopped by David Tilley - a freelance photographer who works for outdoor type publications - asking if he could take my picture as they don't get many cyclists in Newfoundland off the TCH. He drove ahead a little way to find a good backdrop of the barrens and photographed me as I cycled past. Luckily they drive on the right-hand side of the road here so he got my good side! This should be the springboard for my male modelling career - although I'm a bit concerned that he only took one photo! (http://www.wildnewfoundland.com)

With the wind now behind me, and the road fairly flat, I was now making good progress. I cycled alongside the Salmonier Arm of St. Marys Bay, the day was getting hotter all the time. When I got to Salmonier I had to make a decision of which way to go. I would have liked to cycle around St Mary's Cape, but given the fog and wind at the end of the 2 southern peninsulas I have cycled, I decided to head back up to the TCH and start heading west.

The road from Salmonier doesn't show any settlements on my map but it's by no means wilderness; it seems to be a holiday home area and there were a few services along the way. There is also the Salmonier Nature Park, which I am told has a range of Newfoundland wildlife, including moose, but it was closed by the time I got there. (10-5 only) Am I ever going to see a moose, captive or wild? (Only cooked!) A few km further on from the Nature Park was the Irish Loop RV Resort where I ended my day. ($20, showers free)

I decided that a contributory factor in my previous depression must be a lack of beer. One problem though is that beer isn't normally sold by the bottle, but by the pack with the minimum pack size being 6 bottles. Too many for me to drink in one night. I decided I could drink 3, and put the other 3 into a 1 litre water-bottle and carry that tomorrow. If anything is worth carrying for its weight, it'd be beer.

Just as I was finishing diary and savouring my beer, the people at the next campsite spotted a moose on the top level of the campsite. We walked up a level, and there silhouetted against the pale evening sky was a big bull moose. He seemed to make no noise at all as he wandered around against the backdrop of trees and sky. So finally a moose. Of course , it was quite dark, and I'd had a couple of beers, so it could have been two men in a pantomime horse outfit. With antlers on. Or as the lady from the next campsite said; 'a nice rack!' - I thought that meant something else in North America.

Distance: 107.2 km
Cycling time: 6:02
Total distance: 3404.2 km

Sunday, 09 July 2006

Chance Cove Provincial Park to Trepassey

I had my alarms set for the morning, but ignored them all. My joie de vivre has evaporated and I don't know how to get it back. For the whole trip I've really enjoyed the cycling, even when the weather's been bad - (in a masochistic sort of way) but now it suddenly seems like a chore. (Not a good situation considering where I am!) Maybe I've just been on my own too long. Hopefully it's just a passing phase... I've only cycled just over half the distance I cycled last summer around the North Sea.

Eventually I pulled metaphorical socks up, girded my loins, (whatever that means) packed up the bike and set off at 8 am. If I thought the 6 km back up the rough gravel track was hard, once I turned onto the road I was cycling straight into the wind. This part of the Avalon Peninsula is fairly flat and barren with only a few small trees and shrubs dotting the landscape. No hiding place from the wind. I toiled along at only 8 - 10 km/h having a miserable time, trying to distract myself from my slow progress any way I could. Even here I saw sign of moose; large muddy hoof-prints in the road, but no moose.

The day was cloudless but hazy, but I felt no warmth from the sun because of the wind, which I know can be a sunburn risk. At Portugal Cove South I had some brief respite from the wind as the road turned to the north, but from Biscay Bay I was again heading west. By the time I reached Trepassey I had been cycling for nearly 3 hours and had covered only 36 km. I stopped at the Trepassey Motel Restaurant to see if a breakfast would cheer me up.

It occurred to me that today was the World Cup Final, and that if I stayed in the motel and had a lazy day, then I could watch the match on cable TV. That was certainly more appealing than going back out into the wind for 4 more hours. I felt a little bit guilty, but I soon forgot about that when I found out that the room had a bath - my first for two months. A good hot relaxing soak, even if the water was tea-brown even before I got in. Looking out of the window I could see the motel washing flapping horizontally in the wind and was glad to be out of it. As an added bonus I got to watch the Wimbledon men's singles final too.

Distance: 36.0 km
Cycling time: 2:59
Total Distance: 3297.0 km

Saturday, 08 July 2006

La Manche Provincial Park to Chance Cove Provincial Park

(Saw moose today!)

I had no alarms set, and dozed in 'bed' in the morning. I had lost my appetite for cycling even though it was such a beautiful sunny morning. I made myself some breakfast, but it was until after 9 am that I finally set off. Should I try to cover some distance and re-catch the travel bug, or should I have an easy enjoyable day? I couldn't decide. I stopped 10 km down the road for an ice-cream and tea. I needed that ice-cream as there was a long hot climb out of Cape Broyle. In spite of the clear sky and sun, it was chilly cycling along by the sea, especially on the downhills.

The route continued its hilly way south and at Ferryland is really beautiful, which lifted my spirits somewhat. In Ferryland is the Colony of Avalon archaeological site where I spent a couple of hours looking at the artifacts and taking the guided tour. The colony was first established in 1621 and has a fascinating and complex history. (http://www.heritage.nf.ca/avalon)

By the time I left it was already 2pm so it looks like I'm having an easy cycling day after all. I stopped at the small Ferryland Cafe, run by the extrovert Rhonda, for a light lunch. From Ferryland there were a few more small communities, but they were becoming smaller and further apart. After Cappahayden the road turns inland and I was now battling against a stiff SW breeze - the wind never rests here it seems, even on a cloudless sunny day.

It was about 6:30 by the time I reached Chance Cove Provincial Park, but from the entrance it was still a rough 6 km ride on a gravel road to the parking lot by the cove. The parking area was quite busy with RV's, cars and tents. I had some drinking water left, but I asked a group nearby if there was anywhere to get freshwater from, for cooking with; they thought that there was a stream nearby but insisted on giving me some of their bottled drinking water. Then, as I was sorting out my tent, they brought over a plate of stew for me. I took my stew over to socialise with them as I ate, and ended up with seconds and tea. Lovely. The Cavanaghs (?) originally from Ireland, but in Newfoundland for several generations still retain an Irish accent and are a big family; 15 siblings (12 girls and 3 boys) and as you might expect from living in a crowd, loud and gregarious. Luckily, not the whole family was present otherwise I would have struggled with the names. Of the siblings and spouses, I remember Daphne, Allie, Philomena, Frank, Brendan and Carly. Philomena ('Meeny') insisted that I wrote in my diary that in all my travels, she was the most beautiful woman I'd met. She was certainly the cheekiest. In the evening we sat around a blazing fire with sparks flying everywhere in the wind as they entertained me with ghost stories about the deserted community of Chance Cove.

Oh, and the moose? - It was on my plate; moose stew! (I'd thought it was odd that I hadn't seen moose or caribou on a menu anywhere. Moose tasted just like beef to me)

Distance: 72.1 km
Cycling time: 4:44
Total distance: 3261.0 km

Friday, 07 July 2006

St. John's to La Manche Provincial Park

The library was open at 8 am, but the 'Digital Media Centre' wasn't open until 9 am so I had some time to check emails and the BBC website for any world news - I feel a bit isolated from the wider world. I got my 1.3 Gb of photos burned to DVD and posted it home; I haven't been able to find anywhere to upload photos to the web for a while, so a bit behind there.

I wasn't looking forward to getting back on the bike - my legs didn't feel at all refreshed and the thought of the hills and cycling south into the wind was daunting. I set off from the University at 10:30 and as I had to go via the downtown area I stopped for one last vanilla latte on the pretext of studying the map.

I could see the Shea Heights ahead of me that I had to scale. I was on my way to a 14 km round trip to Cape Spear - the most easterly point in North America. What a depressing thought; I've been travelling for 7 weeks and I've only been going east. I'm now actually closer to London than I am to Vancouver. Cape Spear has a lighthouse dating from 1835 and is furnished according to the period. From the cape you can frequently see whales and sometimes icebergs. (not today)

At the cape it was sunny but very breezy and I was soon cycling into that breeze at I rode over the 2 hills on the 7 km trip back to the road. I cycled on through Maddox Cove and Petty Harbour to route 10. Although this part was flatter it was also more residential and the road was busy with thoughtless drivers. At least I could cycle at a relaxed pace as I was heading for La Manche Provincial Park which was an easy days cycle - distance-wise.

In Bay Bulls I saw a sign for Sharon's Pit Stop Barber Shop and on impulse dropped in to get scalped. ($9) It was noticeably cooler without a mop of hair, which probably means the next couple of days will either be cold and wet or hot and sunny (danger of sunburn to the scalp - I've done that before cycling)

Route 10 heads south along the coast linking the community in each bay or cove to the next. In between the road climbs up over the headland before dropping down into the next bay. At Witless Bay I stopped at the excellent Irish Loop Coffee Shop for a salad and tea. Once past Tors Cove I was back in the more scenic wilderness that borders onto La Manche Provincial Park. The park had a sign out saying 'no campsites available' but they seemed to have no problem finding one for me. Well I say campsite - the ground was so hard and stony that I couldn't get my tent pegs in, so I had to fetch some large stones to secure the tent with. What's the point in having a campsite where you can't pitch a tent. I don't know why these places don't have a small grassy area that can be used for just tents.

For some reason I was excessively tired. I had a lie-down in the tent from which I never got up...

Distance: 80.8 km
Cycling time: 5:26
Total distance: 3188.9 km

Thursday, 06 July 2006

St. Johns (Newfoundland)

I'm so glad that I did my walk up Signal Hill yesterday as this morning was a drab uniform grey. I cycled down to town for breakfast and then set about try and mostly failing to do all the chores I wanted to do. There bicycle shops couldn't service my suspension forks; apparently leaking oil is a common problem on the Manitou Black forks and they usually send them to the service centre in Montreal to be serviced! I wonder how long it will take me to cycle to Montreal!

The Memorial University in St. Johns has a big library with computing services, and they said they could burn my photos to CD/DVD, but they didn't sell them...

The hall of residence I'm staying in (Hatcher House) has a laundry room, but don't sell washing detergent, so I spent a while on a fruitless search for single-use packs for my one wash.

Rather than waste the whole day on chores, I walked up to the Botanic Gardens up on Mount Scio. It turned out to be quite a long hike on a hot humid day. ($5) And a long hike back. At least they had a tea-room.

Most towns, at least in the UK, have an over abundance of two things; estate agents and hairdressers/barber shops. More than ever seems to be justified by the size of the place. Do you think I could find somewhere to get my hair cut... No.

Back at the university library I spent hours typing in blog so I hope you're enjoying it. By the time I'd finished it was starting to get dark and I still had to cycle out to the supermarket to get some food if I want to head off on the bike tomorrow...

Wednesday, 05 July 2006

St. Johns (Newfoundland)

It was overcast in the morning as I walked downtown from the University via the Rennie River Walkway but it had all the signs of turning into another lovely day. After breakfast I walked out to Signal Hill and spent a coouple of hours at the Johnson GEO CENTRE which has exhibits and information about the geology of the earth and Newfoundland and Labrador in particular. (http://www.geocentre.ca/) There are also galleries dedicated to the Titanic story (sank just 350 miles from Newfoundland) and the local oil and gas industry.

By the time I came out (most of the building is underground) the cloud had gone and it was a lovely sunny day. I continued my hike up Signal Hill to the Cabot Tower with its panoramic views of St. Johns and the surrounding area. I had always assumed that John Cabot was British as there is a Cabot Tower in Bristol and the name sounds English, but he was Italian - Giovanni Caboto. Prehaps I should change my name to reflect whatever country I'm in.

From the tower I hiked back to town via the North Head trail, which isn't quite as dramatic as it looks in some of the photos I've seen but it is very scenic as it runs around the cliffs, through The Narrows and into the harbour. The afternoon was mostly taken up with chores; cash, cycle shop, typing up blog, etc. The blog has become a millstone around my neck - typing it in that is not the writing of it.

There are large areas of St. Johns that are wooden terraced houses - very pretty in their different colours, but you can certainly imagine how whole towns used to disappear in giant conflagrations.

Tuesday, 04 July 2006

Arnolds Cove to St. Johns (Newfoundland)

By morning the rain and fog had blown through so although it was still cloudy there was some blue sky and sun. By 7:30 I was back on the TCH, (TransCanada Highway) but only for a couple of kilometres - at the Southern Harbour turning I took the gravel road opposite (which went down to the Southern Harbour Waste Disposal site - very scenic!) which eventually became a rough track with some huge puddles. I cycled through all of these except for the last one which was so deep and wide that I waded round the edge.

The reason I was coming this way was to get onto the T'Railway Provincial Park - the former railway line that runs for 883 km (547 miles) from Port aux Basques to St. Johns. Unfortunately it was a wasted effort as the T'Railway proved to be unrideable. In 5 km I nearly crashed twice due to deep gravel - once giving myself quite a scare as I was nearly pitched down a steep slope. I also broke the kick-stand off the bike - a minor irritation (but less weight) At the first opportunity I reluctantly rejoined the TCH.

I guess it would be possible to cycle the T'Railway as some sort of macho adventure, but it's not safe to do it alone. Another problem is that there is no signage, so it would be difficult to leave the route to find services or visit a place of interest and then rejoin the route. Travel speed is also very much reduced - I could barely manage 9 km/h on the short stretch I cycled. It's quite depressing as I had hoped to use the T'Railway as a means of avoiding the TCH and I'm not looking forward to cycling back west on the TCH. I might not have come this way had I known. I may have to take the side roads where I can which will add a lot of time and distance to my trip.

The TCH was a long haul of up and downs. Being a major road there was nothing too steep and although it was quite scenic it was somehow not very enjoyable. By 11:30 I had reached junction 28, the Whitburne turn-off, and I stopped at Monty's Restaurant for a late breakfast. (It's amazing how a sign for a restaurant can spur you along the road.)

After brunch I was in the washroom squeezing out a number 2 (Sorry, but this is how it happened) when someone pushed on the door too heavily (the lock was a bit dodgy) and it burst open. How embarrassing. In that brief glimpse Roy had figured out that I was a cyclist - presumably from the state of me and the bike outside. Roy and his friend Roger, both from Vancouver, are cycling home from St. Johns and were on their second day of cycling. So, we had the surreal situation of having a conversation while I finished my 'business' and then while he did his 'business' (there was only one cubicle) I was asking about the road ahead to St. Johns and how late in the year I could get over the Rockies, and I was telling him about the Cabot Trail. (Breaking the news that they're doing it the hard way, anti-clockwise) They insisted on giving me their phone numbers and inviting me to stay if I ever make it to Vancouver. Being caught with your pants down obviously breaks the ice!

In the time I'd been having brunch, the cloud had broken up much more and there was now much more sun. Having been on the point of giving up I was now keen to carry on. I decided not to bother going to Whitburne, as libraries are often closed on Mondays and between 1 to 2 pm. I was tempted to visit Dildo in the opposite direction just for the heck of it. I'm sure that the Dildo Area Interpretation Centre isn't quite as fascinating as it sounds. I also saw and advert for the Dildo Souvenir Shop... Hmmm, that'll look good on the mantlepiece next to the statuette of the Eiffel Tower.

So although it was at least another 80 km (I'd already done 55 km) I decided to press on all the way to St. Johns. It became a long hot day. There were no services for the whole way to St Johns. Even now, long days in the saddle still become painful if you don't get some long rest breaks. I did stop once by the side of the road, where I could climb down away from the highway for a break.

Most of the way the TCH had a good shoulder apart from a long stretch of roadworks where I was squeezed onto the carriageway with all the traffic. It turned out to be at least 10 km further into the centre of St. Johns than the signs indicated - which is a lot at the end of a long hard day. At one point on route 2 into downtown St.Johns I came across a sign saying "Cycling prohibited" - but what was I supposed to do; there was no exit, and I could hardly turn around and cycle back against the traffic! I carried on.

Amazingly there seems to be no open tourist office in St. Johns so I was left to find accomodation for myself. I found a coffee shop with a payphone and with the luxury of a vanilla latte, did some phoning around. The University is some way oout from the centre and the roads up from the downtown area were fearsome steep, especially at the end of the day, but the room seemed good value at $27 a night. There was an elevator I could put the bike in and wheel it straight into the room with everything still on. (Room 424 was on the 3rd floor - figure that one out!)

In the evening I went out to suss out where everything was that I needed; cycle shop, camera shop, somewhere for breakfast, etc. I stumbled across a pub that was showing a replay of the Germany v Italy game, so I sat and watched that as I wrote diary. Unfortunately the game went to extra-time! (but not penalties)

Distance: 145.6 km
Cycling time: 8:00
Total distance: 3108.1 km