Wednesday, 21 June 2006

MacIntosh Brook to Ingonish Beach campsite, Cape Breton National Park (Nova Scotia)

I had hoped to get another early start but the rain arrived at around 4 am and rained continuously until after 7 am. I got up to "cook" breakfast in the kitchen room; the weather looked bright and changeable. Here I found I was encountering a new biting insect - the no-see-um - a tiny semi-transparent little pest.

It was almost 9 am when I set off - with trepidation, as I knew I had a hardclimb ahead of me. About 3 km along the road was a short interpretive trail and a replica Scottish crofters hut. This just delayed the inevitable as the climb started almost immediately after the Lone Shieling trail. It was a relentless bottom gear climb. Sometimes it's best not to look ahead at all - it's just too depressing. Just look down at your front wheel and the white line at the side of the road and try to keep your legs turning through the pain. Do anything to distract yourself from the pain and the hill ahead. For me, I have a set of songs that I sing (or here recite in my head as I didn't have the breath to sing) Billy Bragg - Between the Wars. The Pogues - And the band played Waltzing Matilda. Dick Gaughan - The world turned upsidedown & The Worker's Song. Believe me, you don't want 'Mr Telephone Man' or 'The Birdie Song' in your head as you toil uphill.

Don't even entertain the though of stopping for a rest, as once that though has entered your head, you'll be stopping, you won't make it to the top in one go. I stopped. At about the halfway point, chest heaving, heart pounding, sweat stinging my eyes.

If you're thinking of cycle-touring, this is why you don't want to do it.

Why am I doing this? I could be at home, feet up, beer in hand, watching the World Cup on the telly. (Oh yeah, I remember, I'd have to watch England try to play) I already had my helmet and cycling specs off to help dissipate the vast amounts of heat I was generating, so when some light rain rain began to fall, it was a welcome arrival. I started off again, and my legs felt strong and fresh but after 10 metres the lactic burn began again and after 20 all memory of a rest was erased. I put my head down and ground it out.

once I reached the top of North Mountaini (457m) there was a long flast section where there was just enough gradient and tailwind to keep me rolling slowly along without peddling. I scanned the scrub at the sides of the road for any sign of moose. All too soon the road fell away in front of me and I was hurtling down the other side of the mountain...

Now, even the glimpse of a hill was enough to strike fear to my heart but it was a pleasant surprise to find I could cycle up them easily, and up to the Sunrise Lookoff before I rolled down into CapeNorth where I stopped at the Morrison Restaurant for lunch. I don't eat burgers, so I'm no expert, but their homemade 'Angus' burger seemed good to me (But then at the moment I'd eat the arse-end of a rhino)

By the time I came out the sun was shining and it was like a different day. The sun feels so much hotter here than in England, even with the wind. I stopped off at a little store to buy some food (I'd just eaten lunch and already I was thinking of food) The chocolate and caramel capucchino cakes looked just so tempting, but in the date squares in oatmeal and an apple seemed a healthier option. From Cape North I headed around through South Harbour, then left the Cabot Trail for the 'Alternative Scenic Route'. All along this road as far as White Point there were some fantastic views, and the sun was playing its part. Not that the road was easy, it was quite hilly, with one hill at Smelt Brook so steep that I had to get off and push as my thighs were screaming at this new effort to climb. (I must give myself a rest day soon) From White Point the road cuts across country and again I was scanning the scrubby land for moose. I don't what to be the only person to come to Cape Breton and not see moose!

The road dropped down into New Haven and then followed the coast round to Neils Harbour where I stopped for a tea and an ice cream. From Neils Harbour, I was back on the Cabot Trail as it looped inland round to Black Brook Cove. I had this lovely spot all to my self and I would have loved to have been able to relax here for an hour or two, but I still had some distance to go to get to a campsite for the night. I did stop long enough to rest for a short while and have a snack. Oh my God, those date squares - they are just so yummy. I'm going to have to look for those again.

Back on the road again, through the scenic viewpoints of MacKinnons Cove, Green Cove, Lakies Head, Broad Cove and into Ingonish - I'd taken so many pictures I was in danger of getting a blister on my shutter finger. In All I took 100 photos today, 89 of them this afternoon. I finally arrived at the Cape Breton National Park campsite at Ingonish Beach after 7 pm, tired but happy.

So, if you're thinking of cycle-touring, this is why you do want to do it.

The welcome I received was overwhelming. Firstly the mosquitoes, who were on me as soon as I stopped at the campsite office to pick up a self-registration form. In spite of covering up straightaway and spraying on the DEET I picked up some new bites. Secondly, as I putting up my tent in a light passing shower, my friend John braved the mosquitoes to inviteme for dinner with him and Cathy in their RV. After the luxury of a hot shower I was treated to a good meal and some cold beers. Like me they are embarked on a long journey; they've travelled all the way from Santa Barbara, California in their RV. It has all the comforts of home - not like the caravans I remember from home - this is the way to travel. Cycling? What was I thinking of

Distance: 79.0 km
Cycling time: 5:40
Total distance: 2200.7 km