Sunday, 18 June 2006

Havre Boucher to Inverness (Nova Scotia)

The black-flies at the campsite are the worst I've come across so far. At dusk they were bad, but there didn't seem to be any about in the mornig - until 1 minute after I got out of the tent. They're fairly primitive beasts. Not for them the surgical hypodermic of the mosquito, they just chew you until you bleed. For them it's Russian Roulette; if they chomp on a nerve, they get squished. If they're lucky enough to find an insensitive patch of skin you only know about it when you see a patch of blood. I found one in the tent that had obviously had it's fill; it looked like a different beast entirely with a bright red abdomen. The thing that annoys me most is the impertinence of it; it's like they're trying to rob you. If you want my blood, at least have the courtesy to ask. (Of course I'd probably still say no)

The day dawned cloudless and sunny and still, but I knew that the wind would arrive soon enough. This made it easy to make an early start - a quick banana breakfast (to escape the black-flies) and I was on the road by 7:30 following route 4 round to Auld's Cove. I stopped here at a little gift shop/seafood restaurant and met the worlds most annoying person. (Give me black-flies any day of the week) He had only one mode of communication: shouting. "SO, YOU'RE FROM CAMBRIDGE - THAT'S WHERE OXFORD UNIVERSITY IS, RIGHT?" No, that would be Oxford. I hadn't ordered breakfast but it arrived anyway; fishcakes and toast. It's lucky that I'm an easy-going guy and not picky about my food. Rhubarb crumble and cream was the breakfast pudding! It's difficult to convey in words just how annoying this person was, and he thought that Margaret Thatcher was "a fine woman", which was the final nail in that coffin. "DO YOU LIVE FAR FROM MARGARET THATCHER'S AREA?" Not far enough. Heaven and Hell wouldn't be far enough apart as far as I was concerned. I may be no angel, but the Iron Lady's going to be melting with her fellow war criminals. Yes, I may be going to Newfoundland, but no I don't want to buy the t-shirt from you. I couldn't read the scribbled total on the bill, so he proceeded to shout the entire bill at me. Yes, it may be a good cause, but I wouldn't sponsor you if you were the last person on earth - in which case what would I be sponsoring you for anyway? I left in such a hurry that I forgot my fruit and biscuits, but I wasn't going back for them. This man's company was like hot needles to the eyeballs. So, if you're ever in Auld's Cove - avoid 'Lobster Suppers'.

I was now on the highway 104 for the short trip over the Canso Causeway, the worlds deepest causeway and the only connection between Cape Breton and mainland Nova Scotia. It was started in 1952 and opened in 1955. Once over the causeway I stopped at the Visitor Information Centre (VIC) to find someone normal to talk to and get my mind back on an even keel. From Port Hasting I was heading north on route 19 along the west coast of Cape Breton. I'd asked at the VIC about the TransCanada Trail, but found that it was unrideable, and after a few hundred metres I turned back to the road. The roads are generally fairly quiet and good for cycling so this was no problem. I had both the sun and the wind at my back and was bowling along at a good pace. By noon I had already done 55 km. The road was fairly open so there were some great views all along the coast.

I left the route 19 at Port Hood and went to the Manitou restaurant for lunch of BLT sandwich and salad. There I met someone who had stayed at the same campsite last night and he was impressed that it had taken them the same amount of time to drive there as it had for me to cycle. Of course, I'd had an early start and the wind at my back, and they'd probably had a mornings sightseeing.

From Port Hood I took the unpaved road to West Mabou which was a scenic but hilly route. I rejoined the route 19 and this too was much hillier all the way from Mabou to Inverness. It was hot work. I was still feeling strong, but I was feeling the effects of the sun when I stopped at the Coal Miners Cafe in Inverness. I found out that there was a campsite just along the road, so I decided to call it a day, a celebrated with a Sleeman's Honey Brown lager to chase down the tea. That beer did more to cool me down than half an hour in the shade had. At the campsite I found a shady spot for the tent too, and then went down to explore the beach. It's amazing how much fun you can have with one beach and one camera. (No naturist jokes please)

After all the sun I'd had, I didn't want a hot shower, but something more than cold would have been nice - and at $28.18 I would expect it! Later on I went back into Inverness to the Coal Miners Cafe (more a pub/eatery) and had the most expensive thing on the menu - Seafood platter for $14.95

Distance: 109.6 km
Cycling time: 5:47
Total distance: 1992.4 km