Saturday, 27 May 2006

Balsam Cove to Blackwoods Campground, Acadia National Park, Mount Desert Island (Maine)

I managed to find my way back to my tent in the dark from the laundry room by the feeble light of my head torch against the mist, and slept like a log. What bliss it is to finally have a good nights sleep - cough free. In the morning there was only the sound of a few bird calls and a woodpecker trying to knock itself out. The campsite is in a lovely spot next to what is marked on my map as Toddy Pond. (Looks like a lake to me - 7 miles long and up to a mile wide) It was most shrouded in mist but hopefully the photos will do it justice. I skipped breakfast in the hope of finding somewhere on the way, and cycled the 2 miles back to the US 1. I was in luck; within half a mile I came to Duffy's restaurant: "We're not fancy. If your are... Bucksport is 7 miles west and Ellsworth is 12 mile east" I had a long chat over breakfast in te diner with George Keith (?) who'd motorcycled around the States back in the 70's and who was another fan of Scotland. By the time I'd emereged, the cloud has lifted and the day was already getting warm even though it was just after 9am.

After a couple more miles on the now quiet US 1, I turned off onto the quieter but longer route 176. This took me south along the eastern shore of Toddy Pond although the lake was hidden by the trees except fora few tantalizing glimpses. In heading north I've moved more and more into the kingdom of the biting insect. This morning when I stop by the side of the road - for a drink or take a photo - they are soon buzzing around your ears. There seems to be two types; mosquitoes and small black flies (like the sandflies of New Zealand) At the moment they don't seem too smart or aggressive (Desperate?) so it's not too bad. I'd bought some natural oil repellent - Cedar, Mint and Citronella - rather than the toxic DEET, so I'll have to see how well it works.

I arrived in Ellsworth around noon after 21 miles. My visit to the library turned out to be a waste of time as I'd typed in half my daily blog, and then lost it all when I tried to save it. My photo upload also failed. Damn. Tomorrow is Sunday and Monday is a Bank Holiday, so no updating for a while... From Ellsworth I followed the SR 230 alongside Union River Bay, but once again it was mostly hidden. the forecast had been rainy, but it was very hot and muggy. By 1:30 pm my cycle computer was reading 31 C. As I couldn't see much on the SR 230 I cut across country on Goose Cove road to Trenton and so saving 4 miles. In Trenton I went to the Chamber of Commerce/Visitor Information to pick up some information on Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park, which is at the end of my current cycling map. I then retired across the road for a Lobster Roll. At $12, expensive for me, but it had to be done. (Must remember that here chip are crisps not french fries)

The Visitor Centre didn't have much information so I headed across the bridge onto the island and found that the was a National Park office that had more information suitable for me. I bought a park pass ($10 for 7 days) and then headed off on the SR 3 to the main Visitor Centre at Hull's Cove. I had to stop en route to buy an ice cream to stop me from melting. At the Hull's Cove Visitor Centre I stopped to look at the displays and buy a cycling/hiking map of the park. The park has a network of "Carriage Roads" - originally designed for horse and carriage, but not mainly for walkers and mountain bikers (and skidoos in winter) I decided to follow the carriage roads through the park to avoid the road traffic. At times it was hard work on the gravelly surface with a laden bike, but it was worth it for some of the views. By the time I'd reached the other side of the park it was getting late, so it was about 6pm by the etime I'd reached the campground at Blackwoods - a pretty big campsite operated by the National Parks Service. Here in New England most campgrounds are in the forest with numbered pitches on compacted gravel - not ideal for pitching a tent on. It's basically a big parking lot in the forest.

The whole place was reeking with smoke as virtaully every occupied site insisted on having a campfire. In the evening the campground reverberated to sound of branches being stamped on to break them for firewood. At least the smake should help to keep the blackflies and mosquitoes away.

I have a mark on the back of each hand - at first I thought it was a bruise, but it's a suntan spot that corresponds to the hole in the back of my cycling mitts. Do you think I can claim the stigmata and get saintly status here? It's sure to be good for some discounts surely?

Distance: 55.3 miles
Cycling time: 5:33
Total distance: 461.8 miles